Other Epoxy Resin and Fillers

J

Jacorey

Location
OC
I've been trying to do some research, but haven't found the answers I'm looking for. If this has already been discussed, can you post a link where I can find these answers. The first question that I have is, does it matter which brand you buy when it comes to epoxy resin? I know everyone is going to suggest uscomposites, but I don't want to wait until next week to get my order. I live in so cal and have access to a variety of composite suppliers and want to know if there is much of a difference (besides price) between say http://www.fiberglasssource.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=88 and http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/ and uscomposites resin? If so, how much of a difference?

Also, when you are adding fillers to the resin, is there much of a difference between cabosil and chopped/milled fibers? Which one is stronger for filling voids?

The hull I'll be working on is a 550sx hull.
 
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BrightE's

BrightE's

Paul
Location
Seattle, WA
It shouldn't matter where you get your resin from, but just make sure it is marine grade.

Regarding fillers, cabosil is just about the worst thing you could add. Cabosil will make the void you're filling virtually impossible to sand because of how hard it gets. You're better off using phenolic bubble or glass bubble fillers. Phenolic being the stronger of the two for large void filling. I suppose it can't hurt either to add chop into it for extra strength.
 
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J

Jacorey

Location
OC
I figured there wasn't much difference between brands as long as it is Marine Grade. I've definitely heard about the issues with cabosil, that is why I was thinking milled because it seems sandable.

Thanks for links. It actually brought up one of my next questions, which foam to use? I was thinking 2 part pour, but it seems that some are saying it doesn't provide support and everyone is using sheets. I'm curious as to why this is, I would think that pouring foam would fill gaps that could not be filled by sheets as well as having a uniform structure rather than several structures supporting each other.
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Pouring foam does provide some support. It's the sheet foam that does not. The hull should be able to support itself, ideally.
The 2-part urethane pourable foam has a tendency to soak up water and make the ski very heavy over time. The sheet foam doesn't do that.
For a good mix, just fill everything with sheet foam as well as you can, then finish off with a little bit of pourable foam.
 
Fro Diesel

Fro Diesel

creative control
Location
Kzoo
Or just cut all the foam sheet a bit tall and stack vertically. Then sand down the whole mess with a da sander to get the height right to lay fiberglass for the tray.

Using two part foam over top of the foam sheet just never made any sense. It will still soak up water and gain weight eventually. The foam sheet shapes easy, just be ready for the mess. I used glued together sheet foam for my side walls too.
 
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J

Jacorey

Location
OC
I'm new to pwc so I don't understand how water should get into a sealed area such as the tray; don't know if I'm using the correct term, (again I'm a newb). I could understand if there were areas that allow for this but, if you seal the tray area, would you still have to worry about water?
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Because you're never going to seal it 100%. Over the months and years, water will get in.


*There are rare cases of exceptional hull builders where the back does stay sealed for years. As a novice, you have zero chance of achieving the same. Water intrusion is a fact, plan around it.
 
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