I see you've been to those levels of frustration as well. That ball end allen key crap seldomly works too. I think I still have this little hoo-hah from a hobby store that worked excellent, a burnisher maybe what its called.
Engine trouble
- Thread starter JetManiac
- Start date
I see you've been to those levels of frustration as well. That ball end allen key crap seldomly works too. I think I still have this little hoo-hah from a hobby store that worked excellent, a burnisher maybe what its called.
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
yeah - that would work.
I oiled them up and gently forced them in with a 2mm allen wrench to get them started - then finished by hand.
I oiled them up and gently forced them in with a 2mm allen wrench to get them started - then finished by hand.
- Location
- Marshall, AR
Yeah theres 2 but one looks like carb gremlins nibbled on it and the other looks new. I've got a bunch of rebuild junk off fleabay with 3 of those so maybe 1 outta 3 won't get destroyed. What are the characteristics of a ski with one of these ripped? Mine wouldnt rev out, once you opened it up above idle just as your standing up the ski would bog and die.
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
I don't know. The I just rebuilt the carbs on my new ski a couple weeks ago, so I remember the frustration of putting those little fugging rubber plugs in.
when new, the clear disk should have a stripe marked across it to indicate the correct side that should be up.
when new, the clear disk should have a stripe marked across it to indicate the correct side that should be up.
- Location
- Marshall, AR
Thanks for the stripe tip, didnt know that. Gonna go see if I can spot it.
I'd use a new rubber plug thing too....I think I have some and the clear disks too. Lemme know if I need to dig them out.
The Penguin
triple secret probation
- Location
- down by the river
the stripe is only going to be on new disks - as soon as gas hits it, it's gone.
Characteristic-wise it would depend on which one it was. But, that block is the other portion of the fuel pump.. So it can easily cause way rich or way lean conditions.
- Location
- Marshall, AR
Thanks for the offer square joel, ive got the rubber plugs too. Yeah I understand the blue lines now on the discs. Wonder why 2 of mine have 2 blue lines and 2 only have 1 line, any difference? Or is this jus t to confuse me more?
- Location
- Marshall, AR
Yeah it seemed lean cause i remember alot of popping/backfiring sound. Kinda sad for a 1st ride.
Sorry for the thread hijacking jetmaniac, maybe my problems can help you as well??
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jetmaniac what have u found so far...any progress...don't leave us hanging. was the ski really running great one day and that like crap the next...if u mentioned that i missed it. if that the case check your fuel pathas suggested by the others, if not...clean/rebuild your carbs
lets make sure we're all clear about what i mean when i suggest a rebuild or to replace internals. i would love to have a set of carbs that never need rebuilding but lets face it the odds are against that happening, my skis can sometimes sit unused for months.
however, lets also keep in mind the fact that the carb is designed with parts that wear, and as they wear the carbs fall out of tune and eventually fail. other parts do not wear and do not need to be replaced when "rebuilding" the carbs, a good cleaning is enough.
parts like, diaphram (both rubber and plastic), one way valves (plastic discs), rubber cone on n/s, plastic oval stip on metering plate,etc all wear at different rates (faster when ski sits fo extended periods). but they all wear and eventually must be replaced. the small plastic discs that function as check valves in the pump are usual suspects of carb malfunction, and the small oval on the metering plate is often ovelooked (should sit flat on plate and let fuel in not out).
the jets, springs, spring arm, small filter etc. are not wear parts and in my experience rarely need changing. sometimes if small filter is dirty its easier to just replace it then try and clean it without damage.
so when a carb rebuild is suggested, what's really meant is to replace the parts that are worn out or wearing and clean the ones that aren't.
square joel and penguin i'm sure alot of us have felt your pain with those check valves. i say leave em in if they seat well and aren't bent, ripped, cracked, warped or shriveled (spelling??) and the little rubber holders, i always try to pull them through instead of pushing (hard to explain exactly how)...ive punctured too many to try the ball end allen again, even the Mikuni tool sucks!!
i'm gonna stop now...i think this is my longest post ever
lets make sure we're all clear about what i mean when i suggest a rebuild or to replace internals. i would love to have a set of carbs that never need rebuilding but lets face it the odds are against that happening, my skis can sometimes sit unused for months.
however, lets also keep in mind the fact that the carb is designed with parts that wear, and as they wear the carbs fall out of tune and eventually fail. other parts do not wear and do not need to be replaced when "rebuilding" the carbs, a good cleaning is enough.
parts like, diaphram (both rubber and plastic), one way valves (plastic discs), rubber cone on n/s, plastic oval stip on metering plate,etc all wear at different rates (faster when ski sits fo extended periods). but they all wear and eventually must be replaced. the small plastic discs that function as check valves in the pump are usual suspects of carb malfunction, and the small oval on the metering plate is often ovelooked (should sit flat on plate and let fuel in not out).
the jets, springs, spring arm, small filter etc. are not wear parts and in my experience rarely need changing. sometimes if small filter is dirty its easier to just replace it then try and clean it without damage.
so when a carb rebuild is suggested, what's really meant is to replace the parts that are worn out or wearing and clean the ones that aren't.
square joel and penguin i'm sure alot of us have felt your pain with those check valves. i say leave em in if they seat well and aren't bent, ripped, cracked, warped or shriveled (spelling??) and the little rubber holders, i always try to pull them through instead of pushing (hard to explain exactly how)...ive punctured too many to try the ball end allen again, even the Mikuni tool sucks!!
i'm gonna stop now...i think this is my longest post ever
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- Location
- Marshall, AR
I installed my check valve today, the little clear disc. It went pretty smooth, all I did was set the disc where its supposed to set, placed the rubber plug in place, then used a allen wrench that fit snug in the plug and put light pressure on it while turning back and forth. It slid through the disc then through the carb.
Glad it worked that well for you! They can be a real bear sometimes.