- Location
- South Africa
I always tend to snap the inner studs, even with a ADA girdled head, means you are making decent hp
Cracked cylinder - can I get this welded??
- Thread starter SXR-FOREVER
- Start date
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Should being the key word ,I had someone weld a set of 1100 Yami cases for me once,I provided them with an old crankshaft,the top case half,all the bolts and the torque specs,when I reassembled it and pressure tested it air was blowing out everywhere,I found out later that they had used a large C-clamp to hold the two case halves together,then preheated it and welded it,that usually wouldn't be a big deal but at the time a set of 1100 cases was $1100.00,I ended up buying 1200 cases which were about $350.00.Moral of the story is make damn sure they know WTF they are doing before they do it!
Last edited:
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
I have never snapped them and I break EVERYTHING. If I ruin another Kawi cyllinder (I rebuild every 2 seasons, just to keep it reliable), I'm puttin a 951 in mine.
SXR-FOREVER
Finally Flippin
- Location
- Lake Minnetonka, MN
should look at the 951 in a kawi from s. africa he said its WAY heavy.
I'm picking up a 66e tonight and thats the plan for the winter. If I go to daytona you'll have to ride it dj
I'm picking up a 66e tonight and thats the plan for the winter. If I go to daytona you'll have to ride it dj
- Location
- Long Island
I was all set an ready to buy the ADA head/girdle kit, from my engine builder, when he advised my not to becuase I would crack a cylinder. Ended up have the domes bored out instead. Less of a head ache.
What kind of material is the stud made of and where are you getting them from? An 8mm stainless bolt shouldn't break under 25 ft-lbs of torque. It is possible for a manufacturer to get a bad batch that are too soft or weren't heat treated properly but it's very rare. Are you torqueing them dry or are you putting any kind of lube or even water on the threads?
- Location
- Cleveland Ohio
absolutely...I'll be there. :smashfreakB:
- Location
- Houston/Galveston
Man one thing I would do before having that thing welded to keep it from warping and keeping everything good and withing machining dimension specs is:
1) I would have that crack sand blasted as said to prep weld area
2) Set that thing down in a spare set of cases and either bolt a girdle head or a piece of 5/16 or thicker plate bolted to the plate on top of the cylinders that imitates a girdle head to keep pressure on the cases and crack while welding to keep any warpage to a minimum.
3) after welding take the cylinder to a machine shop and see if they have a granite plate you can run the cylinder on to check runout on the base gasket surface with a Height indicator. Run the cylinder with top side against the granite and the Height indicator checking the base gasket area. This will show you any warpage that you can file off with a good file.
I would think that a TIR within .002 would be fine.
This may sound extreme but this is how I would do it.
1) I would have that crack sand blasted as said to prep weld area
2) Set that thing down in a spare set of cases and either bolt a girdle head or a piece of 5/16 or thicker plate bolted to the plate on top of the cylinders that imitates a girdle head to keep pressure on the cases and crack while welding to keep any warpage to a minimum.
3) after welding take the cylinder to a machine shop and see if they have a granite plate you can run the cylinder on to check runout on the base gasket surface with a Height indicator. Run the cylinder with top side against the granite and the Height indicator checking the base gasket area. This will show you any warpage that you can file off with a good file.
I would think that a TIR within .002 would be fine.
This may sound extreme but this is how I would do it.
Last edited:
If you bolt it to the case, you can't weld it because the bolts in the way and if you bolted it to the case and left off the one bolt, you'd basically be promoting warpage.
I'd highly recommend taking a magnifying glass and mark exactly where the crack stops. Then stop drill both ends with a 1/8" drill bit. Make sure you drill slightly past the crack because the material past the crack is already weakened. Then just make sure the welder fills in the hole. Just my 2 cents though. It's salvageable any way you look at it but you'll want to inspect it regularly to make sure it doesn't get worse.
I'd highly recommend taking a magnifying glass and mark exactly where the crack stops. Then stop drill both ends with a 1/8" drill bit. Make sure you drill slightly past the crack because the material past the crack is already weakened. Then just make sure the welder fills in the hole. Just my 2 cents though. It's salvageable any way you look at it but you'll want to inspect it regularly to make sure it doesn't get worse.
- Location
- Houston/Galveston
Time for you to find a better welder. From what I see there is room to weld it with a stud in that hole.
Magnifying glass? Why not Dye Check the crack if you want to see exactially where the end of the crack is?
Not sure why drilling is needed when its getting welded up.
Well the reason I said magnifying glass was because dye penetrant isn't something I have just laying around. I recommended stop drilling because the material beyond the crack is already weakened and if you stop welding at the crack, the weakened material could potentially crack again. Probable...no...possible...very much so. Like I said, either way will work. I just figured I'd toss out one more method to consider.
frank rizzo
want some
- Location
- georgia
Just take you time When you weld,Grind it down Then Paint,