Confused on best reinforcing

I have read and read. All of it makes me seem so lost. I guess there is no right or wrong but i could use some suggestions.
Heres the deal.

This winter i want to reinforce:
ONE SJ (mashed in nose, sides, tray, pole bracket area)
TWO B1's (sterns,sides up and under lip, nose, hood edges

Questions?????
A) What materials should i use without getting too fancy or expensive.
- two layers of 8oz. or one layer of 18oz. or something else
- resins?
B) How much of what should i order
C) Tools that would make the entire project go smoother

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
 

kraqus

Site Supporter
I went through the same phase. I was confused as hell after reading so many threads here, then I walked into a fiberglass shop and talked to the sales guy "who knows his chit", tells me I was wrong, this is not the right resin, everything I tell him is wrong for him, then He tells me "his opinion" and proceeded to put me in orbit......I got even more confused.

You are going to have to just Hack it. You can read and read and ask and ask, people will give you different opinions about it but they are all somehow correct. All their boats have come up right and they are all happy with it.

These are pretty good threads that I took some ideas:

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/497&highlight=grind+ribs

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/48456&highlight=grind+ribs

Handle Pole area:
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/5135

Take my thread as an example as well, still hacking it, but I am confident now. Just DO IT! it'll be ok....
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/57994


I order from all the materials from USComposites. Great company and super cool prices.

Resin:
http://shopmaninc.com/epoxy.html

Cloth:
http://shopmaninc.com/cloth.html


I hope this helps.


Benny
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
if you can get the area you are reinforcing smooth enough you can use 1 think layer of biax. if there are sharper contours you'll need to use more than one layer of something thinner to conform.

Hell, my bro has 2 layers of 17oz biax. That is probably over kill.

whatever you do you'll need epoxy resin to stick to the SMC bottom half of your hull.


here, I'll make it easier for you...

you'll need epoxy resin, I like 3:1. (you could probably do a ski with a quart of epoxy + 1/3 quart hardener but I buy it by the gallon) mix it in 8-16oz batches until you figure out how fast you work

you'll need 2 layers of 8oz or 10 oz cloth (e-glass)
-or-
you'll need 1 layer of 17oz or 18oz Biaxle (e-glass)

Tools: lots of disposable brushes and gloves. mixing cups, stir sticks. I like to use a resin roller to work out and work in extra resin but lots of people don't use them. I personally like to use pumps with my resin gallons but thats not needed either.


2 layers of 8 or 10oz will be easier to wet out and lay out but I think the 1 layer biaxle will be a little stronger.


S-glass, carbon, and kevlar all cost more and are usually special order at any local fiberglass supply store.
 
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Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
On my SN which has held up fine, I used a 6" strip of 12oz Biax (1208) along the bond rail, and I used a top to bottom piece of 12oz biax over that (1208). I filled the bond line with cabosil and layed the glass while it was still tacky.

I don't ride nearly as hard as some on this site, but I don't think the ski is going to break unless I literally run it into something or drop it onto something a lot harder than water.

Epoxy resin of course.

This might help.

http://x-h2o.com/showthread.php?t=28835&highlight=760
 
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thanks guys. BIG help. what do you think about using a six inch strip across the bond line over the peanut butter and then 8 or 9 oz from under the lip down over the 6inch piece then down to the bottom near the mounts? any idea if that would be stong enough for a 15' up bail out in the worse case?
 

Kennay

Squarenose for the _____
Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
Demon is right on the bond line. It doesn't really need the strip... the main reason I put it there was so that it stiffened up the side and bottom past the bond line and so that just in case the :):):):)ty yamaha glue was letting go or something, it would all be tied in nicely. You really don't need to do it.

Hood lip is a definate must reinforce area. I found it pretty easy to do with biax too. Just cut you side pieces a little wider in that area so you have some left over and it will all be one piece.
 
thanks again guys. how about this challenge any idea. keep the lip? fill in and made a false lip? no lip? i think its going to be ugly no matter what. might end up getting turfed.
 

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kraqus

Site Supporter
You could get rid of the lip in the front all together and reinforced the inside and outside like a tank......I would use Carbon on the entire nose on the outside so it will look Bad ass.

p.s: I saw someone molded the nose like a shark in here too....just saying :)


Benny
 

tomski

X
Location
LHC
thanks again guys. how about this challenge any idea. keep the lip? fill in and made a false lip? no lip? i think its going to be ugly no matter what. might end up getting turfed.

I can help somewhat with these...
 

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LBE

Eddie Would Go.
Location
Charlotte, NC
Here is my $.02

For the nose (inside): With the white nose foam removed, I reinforced the nose on the inside with a couple layers of biaxle glass. The put the ski standing on it's nose (tie down ancored to rear and to ceiling) fill the nose with 2 part expanding foam. Sand the foam flat and make sure your water box will clear. Then glass over the foam to make a bulkhead.
If you break your nose off your ski will not sink. The foam backing seems to add significant strength as well and seems to prevent "crushing in" the nose.
 

KR

www.krlines.com
Here is my $.02

For the nose (inside): With the white nose foam removed, I reinforced the nose on the inside with a couple layers of biaxle glass. The put the ski standing on it's nose (tie down ancored to rear and to ceiling) fill the nose with 2 part expanding foam. Sand the foam flat and make sure your water box will clear. Then glass over the foam to make a bulkhead.
If you break your nose off your ski will not sink. The foam backing seems to add significant strength as well and seems to prevent "crushing in" the nose.


Great info for someone who rides a big fat superjet! Ha!
 
Here is my $.02

For the nose (inside): With the white nose foam removed, I reinforced the nose on the inside with a couple layers of biaxle glass. The put the ski standing on it's nose (tie down ancored to rear and to ceiling) fill the nose with 2 part expanding foam. Sand the foam flat and make sure your water box will clear. Then glass over the foam to make a bulkhead.
If you break your nose off your ski will not sink. The foam backing seems to add significant strength as well and seems to prevent "crushing in" the nose.

wow good point. it never did really occur to me that i could do this again and have the thing sink infront of me. i will def. try to use your idea but it might be a little harder since my side wraps back around infront of the water box. might even be worth loosing the side exhaust to make a second nose.
 
Location
Ohio
Man those are nice Tom21! I would have clearly bought one of those if I kept my old hull.

Didn't I just see one of yours on a TC ski for sale? I thought he made his own.
 

WaveDemon

Not Dead - Notable Member
Location
Hell, Florida
Man those are nice Tom21! I would have clearly bought one of those if I kept my old hull.

Didn't I just see one of yours on a TC ski for sale? I thought he made his own.

that is not tom21 although tom21 can make replacement noses that you'd graft in yourself. he may even have a nose cap similar to tomski and C. Taylor.
 
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