Super Jet Calling all mechanics......i need serious help!!!!!!

[showmepro1200]

Freshwater, Lake of the Ozarks. (sort of fresh I guess, haha)

We replaced the head gasket (o-rings) with Protec rings last year. I have another set, I guess I can do it again (sigh). Since then we've replaced the coil/wires/plug ends (all new), new 'lighting' coil (green wires btw), swapped stock CDI in for the enhancer and now back, replaced crank seals front and back. Stator is tight and set right on the arrow mark, cause I did it myself .

The water getting into the carbs bothers me, I think we are getting a lot of spray/splash into them from the hull (no leaks in hoses, Ive run it hood off on the lift). Yes the intermediate shaft cover is on there too. I want to retro-fit a stock flame arrestor back on the carbs to knock out that possibility.

One other item - when putting it all back together electrical-wise, I got dielectric grease to squirt into all the connectors in the e-box, and also put some into the black and white two-wire connectors. After doing this, I found that the white connector wouldn't stay locked together, seems the tab that locks is weak and letting the connector slip back out. I bent the tab a bit and now it holds but if you push/;ull it you can get it to pop apart. I went ahead and pushed it together and electrical taped the connection up. Just wondering if that could be breaking connection once in a while and causing trouble (but it 'fixes' itself so I don't think so).

Only other thing I can do is pull the carbs and check the inside filters out - but like Jake said these are brand-new Blackjacks from Art - I hate to pull apart a clean and proper-running carb and find nothing.

 

[Breese08SJ]

take the waterbox out and see if it has a brokin baffle that is flopping around.

Did you take the water box out and check it ?

 

[EXPERIMENTAL]

we did remove everything from the hull this winter, and i put the waterbox back into the hull and don't really recall anything being wrong or hearing anything banging around, plus we ran it this weekend and it seems like the exhaust was coming out like normal.

 

[Watty]

Have you checked the specs on the pulser coil (white/red) and exciter coil (white brown?) I've seen stators that work/check fine, but once they are warm, or have been running, they go out of spec. When the ski starts to play up, check the static state of the coils. Also, give a light tug on the coil wires. The pulser coil has a hard plastic outer sheath to stop rubbing/heat etc where it enters the coil. I've had two stators with that red/white wire that has not been connected (fallen off due to vibration/water) but the ski will run great for a little while.

I like to Check compression, swap complete ignitions, swap carb setups/check needle and seats. You can pretty much eliminate any problems apart from the actual short block by doing this.

 

[EXPERIMENTAL]

but really, how would a broken baffle make the engine run bad? or even effect the engine at all? toby have you had personal experience with a broken baffle.....and if so, how did it make the ski act differently?

 

[TOBY]

but really, how would a broken baffle make the engine run bad? or even effect the engine at all? toby have you had personal experience with a broken baffle.....and if so, how did it make the ski act differently?

S-JETRIDER a good friend of mine had the same type of problems you are having.... he sold his carbs and then he sold the next set he got also he switched out ALL e-box components and the boat ran the same good for a min or 15 then like , he had a older X-can and that was his prob the whole time. it wont take long to take it out and check you may have to hit it with a hammer to knock it loose..

 

[badvinny]

When you had everything out this winter, you did drain the fuel tank completely right? Water builds up over time and stays at the bottom, if this is the case then check the water trap and fuel filter for water also.

 

[EXPERIMENTAL]

yeah, boat is at my parents, but i will check the water box as soon as i get a chance. Yes tank was taken out and drained, new gas for the first ride.....

 

[shawn_NJ]

I had a ski that did the same thing and drove me nuts. I started the ski up @ night in the dark with the hood off. While it was running I took a spray bottle filled with water and some salt and sprayed the plug wires. The plugs lit up/arched like one of those cheesy plasma globes from 1985! New OEM coil and I was back on the water ripping. Something quick and free to try.

 

[Berky]

Take outwares off and try, do a no hood run. White stuff on bells = starved for air ,do you have big breather tubes ?

 

[augustaf]

The charge coil - that is not the one that charges the battery- might fail after it warms up. It's a bit pricey (do not try a WSM !) Watty above referred to it as the exiter coil, the one with the brown wire . Or get another stator and try again.

 

[Kawikazi]

I had similar prob once with the froth and 15 min run time. After months of searching I found one of my sleeves had dropped a few thousandths of an inch

 

[fastony]

If you are still running your fuel switch bypass it they are know to clog up, just run a line from the gas tank straight to the carbs. Also when it starts acting up gap the spark plugs up to .015 and see if it will run, if it does then check the readings on your stator when its hot they can read good cold but will break down when they get hot.

 

[Berky]

Have you done any full moon ceremonies involving goats and chickens ? That always seems to help .

 

[EXPERIMENTAL]

well, not goat and chickens yet, those are last ditch efforts

and for the fuel bypass, i eliminated that first thing when i got the boat, i extended the reserve pick up and ran a line to each carb, and i put a primer in since i have no chokes.

not sure about the sleeve thing, but if everything else doesn't fix it then maybe i will have to open the engine up and i will take a look

 

[ORGAN SPLITTER]

I had a tiny exhaust leak get me like this before, The ski would run great as long as I was rippin, as soon as I started to carve a corner or backed off the throttle for just a second it would bogg out and shut down, let it sit for a minute and it would take off,

I could not see this leak or smell it thats why it had me stumped, Give it a run without the hood and see what happens,

 

[cleetus]

i second the run without the hood.. and have had a pin hole in a water line spray water at the carbs that would only leak at half throttle or above...

 

[augustaf]

well, not goat and chickens yet, those are last ditch efforts

and for the fuel bypass, i eliminated that first thing when i got the boat, i extended the reserve pick up and ran a line to each carb, and i put a primer in since i have no chokes.

not sure about the sleeve thing, but if everything else doesn't fix it then maybe i will have to open the engine up and i will take a look

make sure the extended in tank line is not too long.I placed mine about a quarter inch from the bottom. After awhile the cheap rubber compound grew and it would suck itself to the bottom of the tank. duh!

 

[EXPERIMENTAL]

ok guys, we have an update on symptoms..........

replaced charging coil now (had already replace lighting coil and spark plug wires with coil)

problem still exsists......once the bogging began, took it to the ramp, and pulled spar plug wire off one at a time

1) pulled the front wire - and the ski continues to run on the back cylinder alone

2) pulled the back wire - the ski dies/wont start, therfore is NOT running on the front cylinder
could be from being flooded or bogged, or could be electrical

what would cause this? the only thing i haven't replaced on my stator is the pulser coil and the stator plate itself....

boat will run great with a new set of plugs, but eventually (time varies), the same problem with persist

need help soon! ride is next weekend and i want a running boat!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Idok]

get rid of those outerwears.....unless they are brand spankin new they will hold water and make that paste you speak of.....