Blaster engine swap - engine will not align

[michael950]

Wondering if anyone else has run into this before...

I am dropping a 62t engine into my blaster and the engine is about 1/2" too far forward with a dry fit (no dampener installed).

Used my blaster 61x bedplates, and 61x int. bearing coupler with SJ coupler on the crank. The coupler is not properly aligned, and that might get it to work but it does not seem so.

Anyone have a clue or suggestions?

 

[the only couch rider]

pm godocgo aka Lee. i think he is might be running this set-up in one of his boats so he might be able to help you out

 

[superramjet]

it looks like the short shaft is not pressed all the way in. its shiny where the rest is not. press it back in and it should work.

 

[Matt_E]

Remember to give at least 1/4 inch spacing. I guess that makes it 3/4 inches too far forward.

And x2 about the midshaft. It's not in all the way.

 

[michael950]

Has it "squeezed" out due to no motor in the hull?

I have not touched it since I pulled the 61x.

 

[njfl]

The short shaft may have pulled forward when pulling the motor out last time or if you had the pump out and put it in, the end of the drive shaft may have pushed it forward. I had this happen to me last year. Like superramjet said, tap it back and you should be good to go.

 

[njfl]

In fact, you can see in your first picture that there is about 1/4" of shiny shaft showing. I am almost certain that this section was previously inside the housing and is freshly pushed out.

Edit: Oops. Just reread superramjet's post.

 

[godocgo]

just a aheads up, the midshaft should stick out the back of the housing 22 mm

also not to be a wise ass, but you have a good 1/4 -3/8 " if not more adjustability on the bed plates.

 

[Prem1x]

Wouldn't you want the engine bolted as forward as possible (assuming the coupler fingers are properly engaged) for weighting/handling benefits? Or would you rather have the engine rearwards to ensure as much spline is engaged between the drive and mid shaft?

 

[Matt_E]

Or would you rather have the engine rearwards to ensure as much spline is engaged between the drive and mid shaft?

Eh? How is engine position related to midshaft position? The midshaft needs to be pressed in one set distance, no more no less - so the spline engagement should be constant, not variable.
Maybe I misunderstood you.

 

[parrdaddy]

In your first pic, it looks like there are shims on the crank, between the coupler and seals??? Or am I just deaf dumb and blind?

 

[Mark44]

Did you think that maybe the motor wants to go into a standup and not a sit down? They have feelings you know!

Mark44

 

[Frosty]

In your first pic, it looks like there are shims on the crank, between the coupler and seals??? Or am I just deaf dumb and blind?

yeah, it looks like there about 10 of those washers in there... mine all have only one. That might be your problem right there.

 

[oxnard111]

In your first pic, it looks like there are shims on the crank, between the coupler and seals??? Or am I just deaf dumb and blind?

Good eye

 

[michael950]

I think the short shaft IS pressed in all the way. Compared it to my SJ and they are, visually, the same specs (on a flat surface everything aligns).

I will reinstall the int. bearing and see if the engine can be aligned by moving the motor mounts.

If that fails, I will remove the washers.

 

[WB800BLASTER]

check that the coupler is threaded all the way in, i think you have way to much thread showing on the crank shaft.

all my boats only have a few threads showing if any.

 

[LBE]

yeah, it looks like there about 10 of those washers in there... mine all have only one. That might be your problem right there.

I thought that was the crank threads? Doesn't look like its all the way on.

 

[willycrumb]

run it!

 

[Prem1x]

They don't look like threads to me. Just washers.

 

[michael950]

They seem to be washers. I have been informed by the previous owner the engine should drop right in.

Removing the washers should do the trick.