Bilge Connections.

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
I have tried soldering the wires together, then heat shrinking over the connections and even using liquid electrical tape to seal the heat shrink... didnt last 6 months due to corrosion.

Then I did it agan with the heat shrink that has the glue in it. NOPE didnt last a year.

This is my last attempt. I went with bullet connectors with heat shrink connectors that even have the glue in the heat shrink. Then used dielectric grease on the connections. THen covered each connection with clear heat shrink, and then put a larger clear heat shrink over everything. I went with clear so I can look inside to see what was going on and look for moisture.

I would like to know how other people have their bilge wired up and if they have this same problem.

BilgeConnection2.jpg

BilgeConnection4.jpg

BilgeConnection5.jpg

BilgeConnection8.jpg
 

The Penguin

triple secret probation
I've got one I need to check on before Daytona - and you did the wiring on those...so it's all your fault!

have you tried the connectors that have the solder inside them?
 

QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
I've got one I need to check on before Daytona - and you did the wiring on those...so it's all your fault!

have you tried the connectors that have the solder inside them?

Not sure if that would help, but NO I havent. the corrosion usually happens right before the soldered area, or where ever there is a cut in the wire.
Last time it the broke wire was actually up from my connections about 5 inches.
 

The Penguin

triple secret probation
yup - found the same on Kitty last time I had a bilge out.

guess I need to get out there and get that fixed before the trip - it's the only thing I need to do before we go.

you want some help with yours next weekend?
 

Boris

The Good Old Days
I tried all of those methods in the past but corrosion finds it's way in there no matter what. Bout the only thing I haven't tried is to run the bilge pump connections into the electrical box through the overheat sensor grommets. Might work but opening up a perfectly sealed electrical box isn't my idea of fun.

Gave up on bilge pumps all together since I pretty much never use them any way.
 
Location
baldwin ny
gm water proof connectors. works great i have my stator wires run with these connectors and my bilge. nothing but salt water. going on 3 years. makes motor swaps fast. i have all my spare motors all ready set up. just plug it in.
 
I have a couple of my connections set up with GM style connectors as well(also used in Seadoos which is where I recycled mine from). Just gotta buy some of the terminals.

Put some dialectic grease in them and they are pretty well bulletproof.
 
Location
baldwin ny
i got all of mine from happy terminal .com. right weather pack. i would get a pic of my boat all set up but it all covered up. to dam cold to mess with it now. lol going to daytona ? it will be there. 1990 stock stickers nose mashed off with turf hanging off it. lol
 

Attachments

  • CIMG3105.jpg
    CIMG3105.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 55
  • CIMG3106.jpg
    CIMG3106.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 36
  • conn.jpg
    conn.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 40
Last edited:
Location
baldwin ny
i love it i did a post on the ele box for the starter wire. i never have to pull the ele box to swap out motors. nothing like a big waves weekend and having a motor blow up. 15 mins i am running again. (i have complete setups ready to go exhaust manifold,head pipe and all.)
i also do motor mounts every other year so i pull the motor out all the time.
its such a pain in the ass to get a yamaha ele box sealed up good. i hate to mess with it to much.this way i dont have to.
 
Last edited:

McDog

Other Administrator
Staff member
Location
South Florida
One of the VERY few positives of fresh flat water is that I don't have to worry about this. I could crimp them in cheap azz chit and it will last for years.
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
I have never installed these in salt water, but have been installing them underground for a few years and have never had a problem. Unfortunately they don't un-plug. They can be taken apart relatively easy though. Very quick and easy to use, and pretty cheap for the quality.

Here's a link.
http://www.paigewire.com/Specs/3M316ir.htm
For more results type in 3M 316IR.

I dig the GM plugs! This is just another option.
 
I use the weatherpack connectors also, they are great. Next thing, how to you terminate the battery/ground lug ends? You can seal the splices with weatherpacks, but I have trouble sometimes with the lug end corroding. I just leave enough slack I can chop it off and redo it. The last couple I did seem to be holding up OK, I removed the plastic sleeve from some lugs and crimped them, then covered the exposed wire in solder and then covered the lug all the way to the ring portion with adhesive lined heatshrink. Looks wild, but seems to be holding up.
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom