Battery Charging Issue , Help ?????????

[blaster800]

Electrical Issue Update

To back up a bit I compared my charging voltage12.7 against my purple blaster 13.5V and this one is not charging !! so thanks SUPERJETT for the charging voltage info. My question is : How do you test a charging/lighting '' stator'' coil ??? I have disconnected the regulator due to it showing a charge of ''0-1 volt'' ''Test done per manual procedures '' NOW ........ There are 2 green leads coming off the stator coil, should I test it this way/ '' red V-METER lead to a green wire , black V-M lead to the other green wire "" Or Red V-M lead to one green wire and the Black V-M lead to ground ?? I have done it both ways and cant find a charge anywhere in those green wires !! It does not say how to do this in the test procedures that I can find ???

 

[Pro-pulsion]

How many wires come from the stator, just the green ones or is there more? The stator is just a bunch of wound coils but usually there are about 3 colors to test on all the machines I have worked on, although I've not worked on Yamaha before.

 

[blaster800]

How many wires come from the stator, just the green ones or is there more? The stator is just a bunch of wound coils but usually there are about 3 colors to test on all the machines I have worked on, although I've not worked on Yamaha before.

I believe just 2 green ones that I see in the schematic , It says here : Chapter-7 page 22 & 23. http://www.mediafire.com/?9gzav114rsp

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Downloading the manual now and will let you know what I find when I find it :fingersx:

 

[WFO Speedracer]

`You test between the two green wires positive lead on one and negative lead on the other one with the meter set on the AC scale ,I don't know the specs one your particular unit but its usually 100 + volts AC @ 7000,at idle it still should be putting out 50 + volts AC.If that all checks out ok you can pretty much bet the regulator -rectifier is bad.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Ok, so it looks fairly straight forward. I would try it both ways, red into the first green and black in the next, then reverse order. The diagram shows that all you will only be testing for continuity through the winding. I'm just about to head out so I wasn't able to find any resistance values for you but a general rule of thumb for most windings of this nature are no higher resistance than 0.3ohms. If you are not familiar with testing for resistance values don't worry, it's easy to do. Set the meter on the lowest setting for resistance. Touch the test probes on your meter together first and let the numbers drop down until they pretty well hold (usually around 0.2-0.3), this is called zeroing the meter. Keep that number in mind as it is the internal impedance (or resistance) of the meter. Now test the two wires leading to that coil and subtract the meter's impedance from the number shown. If it you calculate the number to be higher than 0.3, your lighting coil is most likely burnt out. If it is right on 0.3 or lower, the coil should be fine. Oh yeah, you don't need the engine to be running when doing a resistance test, this is not an output test so make sure you use the right setting on the meter and leave the engine off.

 

[blaster800]

Ok, so it looks fairly straight forward. I would try it both ways, red into the first green and black in the next, then reverse order. The diagram shows that all you will only be testing for continuity through the winding. I'm just about to head out so I wasn't able to find any resistance values for you but a general rule of thumb for most windings of this nature are no higher resistance than 0.3ohms. If you are not familiar with testing for resistance values don't worry, it's easy to do. Set the meter on the lowest setting for resistance. Touch the test probes on your meter together first and let the numbers drop down until they pretty well hold (usually around 0.2-0.3), this is called zeroing the meter. Keep that number in mind as it is the internal impedance (or resistance) of the meter. Now test the two wires leading to that coil and subtract the meter's impedance from the number shown. If it you calculate the number to be higher than 0.3, your lighting coil is most likely burnt out. If it is right on 0.3 or lower, the coil should be fine. Oh yeah, you don't need the engine to be running when doing a resistance test, this is not an output test so make sure you use the right setting on the meter and leave the engine off.

Thanks , I will try Resistance test next ........

 

[Pro-pulsion]

One quick last thought, if you want to see whether there is a short to ground or not, put one meter lead into either of the greens and the other to ground like say a nut on a head stud. If there is continuity, the meter will read a number, depending on how bad the short is, it could range from 0.3 to around the max. the meter can read. This test you need to try all ranges of the resistance scale from lowest to highest until you get a number to pop up and hold. If the meter doesn't pull up a number than there is no short to ground. If the meter doesn't pull up a number on the other test I mentioned, then there is a burnt out wire on the coil and no connection will be there. Best of luck and keep us up to date.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Looking at the wiring diagram now it is just the two green wires.Funny but the yamaha literature says maximum output 12v and 7-9 amps ,coil ohms out at .86-1.06 ohms,most systems I deal with put out a maximum of 14.5 volts at redline,6000 is listed as redline on the GPR 800.

 

[blaster800]

still need help !

tested : 1.1 maximum ohms across both green wires '' My digital Fluke 337 meter reads only down to ''tenths'' ........ no continuity to ground from the green wires so These tests sound good to me but I'm at a loss as to how yamaha checks voltage out of the wires while running ??? If I can do this test correctly and verify the stator is toast then I will replace the stator

 

[Pro-pulsion]

The manual shows that to test the charge coil put the neg. lead of the tester on the brown wire, and the pos. lead on the blue wire (where ever these wires are located...around the CDI maybe?) and set the meter to DC Volts (hopefully your Fluke will handle higher than 220 DC volts). Then you need to disconnect the red lead from the regulator/rectifier to test the peak voltage. When cranking the voltage should be between 90 and 120. I'm only going by how the manual describes it so I can only offer a very limited amount of general knowledge experience for your situation :biggrin:

 

[blaster800]

The manual shows that to test the charge coil put the neg. lead of the tester on the brown wire, and the pos. lead on the blue wire (where ever these wires are located...around the CDI maybe?) and set the meter to DC Volts (hopefully your Fluke will handle higher than 220 DC volts). Then you need to disconnect the red lead from the regulator/rectifier to test the peak voltage. When cranking the voltage should be between 90 and 120. I'm only going by how the manual describes it so I can only offer a very limited amount of general knowledge experience for your situation :biggrin:

I think your looking at the wrong coil !! '' called a lighting coil '' charge coil is the ignition coil .. am I wrong ? but thanks for tryin

 

[WFO Speedracer]

You are right,I looked at a wiring diagram in a Yamaha 2001 update book and the lighting coil wires are green,you just disconnect them from the regulator put your test leads in them and fire it up and read the voltage.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

Thanks WFO, I was wondering if I missed something there lol. Gotta love my limited capabilities lol.

 

[blaster800]

It must be toast then ! I think I tried every test combo so far .

 

[#ZERO]

Did you remember to disconnect the output lead (red wire) of the rectifier/regulator when performing the output peak voltage test?

Also the lighting coil peak voltage test is AC current; so you need to switch your Fluke rotary dial to the V sign with the ~ on the top.

The rectifier/regulator peak voltage test is DC current; so you need to switch your Fluke rotary dial to the V sign with the -- on the top.

Also when they checked your battery with the digital conductance tester did you note the voltage and cold cranking amp measurement? If the voltage is very high and the cranking amps are at the minimum spec, it will influence how well the battery can accept the charge.

 

[firemedicmonkey]

The stator should charge the battery somewhat even with a bilge running...
In stead of cutting the wires, use a probing testlight... It makes a small hole in the wire and then you can find which one has current when off...

I would also do a full stator test... I am not sure what the ouput voltage of that stator is but I think it should be higher than 12.7 V ...Again I am not a Yamaha guy so I don't know the specs but they should be availble somewhere around here!

To back up a bit I compared my charging voltage12.7 against my purple blaster 13.5V and this one is not charging !! so thanks SUPERJETT for the charging voltage info. My question is : How do you test a charging/lighting '' stator'' coil ??? I have disconnected the regulator due to it showing a charge of ''0-1 volt'' ''Test done per manual procedures '' NOW ........ There are 2 green leads coming off the stator coil, should I test it this way/ '' red V-METER lead to a green wire , black V-M lead to the other green wire "" Or Red V-M lead to one green wire and the Black V-M lead to ground ?? I have done it both ways and cant find a charge anywhere in those green wires !! It does not say how to do this in the test procedures that I can find ???

:sadwavey:What about me Frank I said it first!!! lol


Did you test for key off current drain? Just currious if that is a short somewhere's causing the stator to perform poorly...

Since you have 2 B1's do you have spare parts around you could use to test components? Replace with a spare and see if it solves the problem... :banghead:Not an ideal solution but might be the quickest if you have them on hand.

 

[blaster800]

Did you remember to disconnect the output lead (red wire) of the rectifier/regulator when performing the output peak voltage test?

Also the lighting coil peak voltage test is AC current; so you need to switch your Fluke rotary dial to the V sign with the ~ on the top.

The rectifier/regulator peak voltage test is DC current; so you need to switch your Fluke rotary dial to the V sign with the -- on the top.

Also when they checked your battery with the digital conductance tester did you note the voltage and cold cranking amp measurement? If the voltage is very high and the cranking amps are at the minimum spec, it will influence how well the battery can accept the charge.

Continued ...... yes I disconnected ''red wire'' Yes tested amps oh way high above specs, volts good , ..........I will redoo the AC test I mised the ''AC'' part somewhere in the reading I think its the'' Dislexia or probly my Dimentia due to age '' so I will check for AC, I did have it on DC .
Thanks Monkey !!! I read yours first !!!!LOL anyways I have 2 totally different B-1's '''66-e'' and ''701-BB '' so no Parts swaping here ! .... The key off current spark currently is a non issue at this moment untill I verify the stator cond ,It is a EXTREMLY SMALL SPARK ,not even visable in daylight but can be heard when you touch the batt to the terminal , so I dont know if the computer takes a miliamp just to turn on of I have a draw here .....I will test the stator first and then search the for draw if my stator is good ... I wish this was over !!!LOL

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Continued ...... yes I disconnected ''red wire'' Yes tested amps oh way high above specs, volts good , ..........I will redoo the AC test I mised the ''AC'' part somewhere in the reading I think its the'' Dislexia or probly my Dimentia due to age '' so I will check for AC, I did have it on DC .
Thanks Monkey !!! I read yours first !!!!LOL anyways I have 2 totally different B-1's '''66-e'' and ''701-BB '' so no Parts swaping here ! .... The key off current spark currently is a non issue at this moment untill I verify the stator cond ,It is a EXTREMLY SMALL SPARK ,not even visable in daylight but can be heard when you touch the batt to the terminal , so I dont know if the computer takes a miliamp just to turn on of I have a draw here .....I will test the stator first and then search the for draw if my stator is good ... I wish this was over !!!LOL

Most units that have an MFD have a parasitic draw,it is usually in the milliamp range but its there,Seadoos are especially known for this and will run the battery dead within a month of sitting unused.