B pipe install Help

CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
The directions aren't very clear on how to run the waterlines.. thats why I was asking, you think they could provide a picture of the routing!

Shonuff, my manifold is only tapped on one side, not both..

So laying up against the hull is ok then?
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I ran my jetworks valve right after the head pipe, and BEFORE the Tee to the stinger/pisser, and then put a restrictor in the stinger.

I had a hell of a time getting my water routing, and B pipe to work out, I finally got it running pretty well.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
It can, and I tried it there, but I liked it better before the stinger and bypass.

when there is water coming out of the bypass, I know water is going into the waterbox ( not much though)

when that bottom bypass is dry, I know the valve is closed.

just worked out better on my setup like that.



I thought the JWV went into the stinger?
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
yes, one straight out of the head, and the one we were talking about teed with the stinger FROM the jetworks valve.

I also have top and middle screws closed on headpipe, and bottom open maybe 1/4 turn.

it never sizzles water, and headpipe temps are 170 MAX after a hard run, beach it, open hood..

its barely hot to the touch.

also, it clears everything in my reinforced squarenose hull with ease. seriously, touches NOTHING in there.
 

CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
damn I'm all confused now... I have to look at my manifold.. should there be 2 fittings?? I guess I could use a 2 fitting and split the water line coming in to 2 and run those to the maifold? Then set up the rest like in shonuffs picture?

Also should I ground down the ribs on the side of the hull?
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
I didnt grind my ribs...

IT was suggested to me to tee the two manifold fittings together if I ran single cooling, so im sure thats a fine way to do it also.

My boat is still in the water at the lake, so I cant take pics to demonstrate how I routed my water, but I can get you some this weekend.
 

CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
ah ok that explains why I only have one. You would think it cool better, if waterflowed into both cylenders.. makes sense for the two. So then I will follow shoenoughs diagram then. I need to order another pisser.
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
water will flow just fine with that one fitting..

here is a pic of mine, this is BEFORE I moved the jetworks valve right after the headpipe...

yellow squiggly is where the valve is now.

purple squiggly is the stinger line that has the restricor in it.

blue sqiggly is a restrictor out of pipe into head, to increase water pressure in pipe to make the headpipe screws more responsive to adjustments.. this was the part I was missing all along that made the MOST difference in my particular setup.

it might blow to hell tomorrow, it may be incorrect, but after reading 2,986 posts here, and asking lots of people lots of questions, this is the setup that I finally got to work and make decent power.
 

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Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
if you do order another pisser- have whoever you get it from send a few 90 degree brass fittings in the box as well... you will need them at some point... trust me... they will know what size to give you... just tell them what its for...
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
yeah... wait until you are ready to go dual cooling to put the other nipple on the manifold.

one inlet will be more than enough unless you are running in 100 degree water.
 

CarFanatic

Fiberglassing Newb
Location
Cincinnati, OH
ok, so if I set it up like shonuffs picture that work ok??

also where did you get the restricter your talking about. I just have a flow control vale.

water usually gets up to mid 80's at the most.
 
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BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
i have no restrictor on my setup but i do have a flow control valve.

the guys i run with use the theory the more water in and more water out the better cooling, so i just set mine up like that. maybe its because we ride the marsh where the water is only 2-3 feet deep at high tide and water is very warm. pissers will flow out hot after a few laps around the track WOT.

however when we run the ocean my ski runs very cold.

this argument has been beaten to death in a few threads and i think the common answer was do what works for you.

people can tell you what to do all day but until you try every possible setup you wont know what works best.


my suggestion would be to do what ericfox said and follow factory pipes routing.


inlet to the bottom of the manifold to 1 nipple.
two outlets on head
-one outlet to bottom of headpipe
-second right from the head overboard
take the line from the top of the headpipe to the stinger and put the flow control right before the stinger.
put a T fitting right before the flow control with the straight part of the T pointing to the flow control and the T pointing overboard.


-Hope that made sense.
 
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