SX/SXi/SXi Pro Anybody hack an SXR plate to fit on SX/SXI?

So there are a lot more plates out there for the sxi pro and SXR than the 1st gen 92-96 750 sx/ sxi, and a lot of killer deals on used SXR plates.

Anyone ever hack an SXR plate to fit on their SX? I know it can be done, but just wondering if I'll have to hack the front/sides, or just the bolt holes????:Flush:
 
Location
ANGOLA
now i`m thinking i used the one from my sxi on my sxr without any problems. don`t remember buying and selling any and i know its the same plate brand anyway. wish i had better memery but i think they very close.
 
now i`m thinking i used the one from my sxi on my sxr without any problems. don`t remember buying and selling any and i know its the same plate brand anyway. wish i had better memery but i think they very close.

SXI PRo? Yeah the SXI Pro and SXR have the exact same specs. I'm just wondering how much work it would be to mod the SXI PRO or SXR plate to fit the 92-96 750.

I don't mind doing a little welding, grinding, drilling. Just wondering if it goes beyond that (depth, lenght, fitment against the intake grate, etc).
 
Got an SXR plate today.. the holes only need to be oval'd out 1/4" on each side. Everything else looks to line up perfectly. I'll verify when I get this sucker mounted.
 
Disclaimer... this particular plate seems to fit correctly but I cannot guarantee others will. Modify at your own risk!!

OK, it fits. Just to clarify it's a shredmaster ride plate for an SXR or 98 and later SXI Pro. I JB welded the original bolt holes and redrilled the holes 1/4" further out, then used a 1/2" bit for the recessed area, then a 1/2 forstner bit so I can use the factory style bolts. You really need a drill press for this, especially because the bits seek out the jb welded old holes versus the aluminum when drilling, but I did this as a low-buck mod and did a 1/2 arsed job by hand. Lesson learned? Drill press and aluminum welder would have helped :).

Everything seems to line up correcty and I test-fitted it last night. Today I prettied it up with a fresh coat of primer/paint and I plan to install tomorrow. Pics to follow!

Pretty stoked with this plate by the way. I hope it's is as good as it looks (shredmaster SXR plate, 18" long). Other plates may or may not fit. What seems to be the primary requirement is the ability to redrill 1/4" further out. Some plates don't have a thick metal mounting area further out (you need to have room for the bolt and shoulder).
 
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Here are some pics. It's been raining and my ski is outside so I may or may not mount it permanently today. I'll post a final pic when done :). The only other recommendation I have is that it might have been easier to do angle-seat (countersunk) screws rather than a flat recessed seat. You can see the seat is plenty wide for a good mount but the inner hole (drilled first) is a tad off-center. That turned out to be no problem because the m6 bolt diameter is smaller than that hole. I'm sure somebody has a simpler quicker way to do it.

Total cost:
1)Used ride plate :~$90 including shipping (shredmaster 18")
2)Bolts, washers: $7
3)Forstner drill bit (1/2") $7 (already had misc bits for the rest)
4)Silicone $6
5)Can-o-paint $5
Total $115. Keep in mind I have been looking for months for a used 18" plate, and only Jet Dynamics and Worx make them. They cost between $180-200 shipped. You can get stock sxr plates for about $30 bucks these days, and they're 16" long, so that would have been by 2nd choice. Ocean pro plates for the 92-96 Kawi 750s are only 15" long.
 

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That looks really good. So you just filled the original holes with JB weld and then drilled new holes in the correct spots?

Yep, you can see in the first pic I've filled in the original holes. The major pita on it was that after drilling the small hole in the new location, when using the large bit for the recessed area for the bolt head, the bit wants to seek the softer material (jb weld). I'm pretty sure if I had a good drill press and the plate was clamped I wouldn't have had that problem. Also, I used "jb quick" which may not be as hard as the normal jb weld, which some claim is as hard as aluminum. In hindsight, it would have been easier if I had just used a countersink bit and screws with angled seat.
 
Here's the installed pic.. it was pouring rain and I'd already covered it back up and had it strapped to the trailer so the pics are crappy. Everything seemed to line up correctly, except my pjs intake grate sticks down slightly. Is that thick rubber thing above the back of the intake grate necessary?
 

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rode it yesterday... night and day difference! I would say it eliminates porpoising when standing correctly. Before it would start porpoising at/near top speed and now it doesn't do it--- slight front to back motion but basically stays glued and does not hop. If you are on your knees with your feet off the back it will still porpoise but that's to be expected.

Totally awesome.

One thing I do have to note is that I also switched my intake grate from a worx scoop grate to a PJS one that is similar to stock but with the center piece removed.
 
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