You want the stator to be as close as you can get it. The easiest way to get it there is start from the beginning, take it out, measure from the end of the slots to edge of the screw marks on the original one and use that measurement on the new one as to where the edge of the screws should sit. That'll get you as close as possible to the original stator setting. After that, use a utility knife and push it into the outer diameter of the stator plate in line with the mark on the cases so you have a reference point when you look into that capped inspection hole. That way you will at least have some sort of visual reference if you need to adjust it and that key is pooched. That will do the exact same effect of an out of phase crank because it has changed where the crank rotation is in relation to the spark timing. There should never be any marks unless it's just the outline of the keyway, or indentation on a flywheel key. Pretty sure you'll have a different experience with a healthy key in there.