85mm Reduction nozzle+9/15 Hooker+144mm Stock Pump.... Stubby pump cone or R&D Afterburner Pump Cone Sleeve?

I asking because I have been doing research on the subject and the more I read the more i'm getting confused.. lol... I have the my 1990 SN stripped down for a makeover over winter and decided to go through everything.

I'm looking for best low end hit. My setup is as followed:

1. Worx 201 Intake Grate
2. Impros 9/15 Hooker(Just installed)
3. #Zero 85mm Taper bored Reduction Nozzle(Just installed)
4. Protec +20mm Steering nozzle
5. Stock 144mm Pump
6. Engine is a mild build(701/61x with ADA girdled head w/ 37cc domes, Bpipe, and soon to be lightened flywheel)

I have just a blowsion stubby pump cone on it right now, and was reading on pump efficiency, reduction nozzle bore, and cone differences. I also have a R&D After Burner Pump
Cone Sleeve that I could use. My question is since the 9/15 hooker is a large hub prop, should I be using the Afterburner Pump cone kit to Simulate having a Large Hub Pump to gain pump efficiency? If so, Will this work together with the bored reduction nozzle to give me the best low end hit or will the bored reduction nozzle and the Afterburner Pump cone kit not work together and negate each other?
 
Location
Stockton
You have a nice set up there. If you don't mind the extra work and testing, leave the after burner out and try it... Then install it and try it again, see which you like better if any.

If your not into all that and want to put it together 1 time basically, I'd put the after burner in with all you have listed above, should be pretty good
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
What harbor is saying. Test every combo. On my old setup in my sj with OEM pump, With 85mm bored nozzle, I lost bottom end with a stubby cone. every setup is different. Just try every combo and see.
 
I pretty well have this very set up too and found for my ski the Afterburner was a good addition. The impeller is a large hub and should have a large core to mate up to it but I have also read of people running large hub impellers on stock pumps with no issues too. The pump stuffer will help to pressurize the pump and because it is a complete kit you won't be using the stubby cone. It takes a lot of ride time and remove and replace time to tune it in but once you find that sweet spot it is worth it. Toy with the shims that come with the pump stuffer, mine works best with only the main plate, the additional 2 shims are left out (not shown in the photos below). Beyond that and it pushes the cone too far out making it more of a restriction slowing down water output, sounds odd since the shims are only about 2mm thick each but it does make a difference. The only difference you have from me is the #Zero taper bored nozzle, other than that we have the same gear. If you haven't done so yet, for more hook up try blueprinting the stator section of your pump, it helps out quite a bit. Bring it to a decent finish and grind away all the casting flaws and stand off sections. See the attached photos. The pump seal is not installed in these photos, when I was grinding I used green painter's tape to seal off the bearing section from the grinding. It was waiting on new seals and bearing kit at the time this job was being done.
 

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Wow thanks for the thorough reply with pictures! I cleaned up some of the casting flaws but not as extreme as your pictures.. only reason I upgraded to the #zero taper bored reduction nozzle was because my stock plastic one cracked at 3 out of the 4 bolt holes...lol figured it was time to replace ... I have it setup with no shims at the moment... I'll mess with the shims ... That is easy enough to swap out..

This is turning into a brand new SN SJ... Think I've upgraded everything now!! Lol
 
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