300sx

[driftmaster]

Still need to do a small bit of shaping.


Shaft is done. Ill stick the mounts next. Just couldn't bust the grinder out at 3 in the morn. I am having fun with this build.

 

[driftmaster]

Sorry to interrupt this conversation you are having with yourself :silly: , but why not?

Hehee~

Thinking bout this again I don't not see why you couldn't just remount the rear mount's on the ride plate.

 

[tnj4life]

Can you shorten the stock pole somewhat easily? On our js I just relocated my bars 2 1/2" forward on the turn plate.

Also, could you have just used a conversion plate to mount your 750 in this ski? I bet your trying to get the engine back as far as possible for more of those "backflops" haha. Engine location is so crucial. My fx1 rides sooo different compared to jens js. The fx1 pops outta the water at any given second, whereas the js with the yami motor is much more planted but a little more nose heavy. I did have to go forward about 3/8" with that yami engine though due to my battery box.

 

[driftmaster]

Can you shorten the stock pole somewhat easily?

Also, could you have just used a conversion plate to mount your 750 in this ski? I bet your trying to get the engine back as far as possible for more of those "backflops" haha.

Man I'm thinking the stock pole is perfect.

I did have a thought bout the 750 plate. Now I'm thinking just flip the 300 plate and mount the bars on top.

You get some good riding in this weekend?

 

[Cannibal]

Hehee~

Thinking bout this again I don't not see why you couldn't just remount the rear mount's on the ride plate.

That's basically what i was thinking. Set it back 2 more inches, make new mounts, and then take 2" out of the center of a stock ride plate.

 

[tnj4life]

Man im still sore, 2 days of riding with this high heat index I about got sick from the heat lol. The fx1 pulls much harder than before. The holds are great, nose stabs are much easier to hang on to. Timing is such a key with these skis for tricks. Im proud I ditched the sn, im more at home on the fx1.

 

[tnj4life]

Oh, i was talking bout a conversion plate for that 750 motor your putting in the ski. I was wondering why your messing with the motor mounts.

 

[Brian_216]

So what does setting the pump back do? If you move the pump back what do you do with the tunnel area? Just extend it I would guess? I'm still contemplaing the need for a mag pump or just sticking with my 140mm stocker.

 

[Cannibal]

With this type of setup, you could just move the pump tunnel and everything back before the graft. Setting it back moves the steering nozzle back and gives more response. If you still wanted to use stock ride plates, you could set the pump tunnel back flush with the bond line in the back and then build a little box or angle it to match the ski. Many of the lightweight stunt type hulls have the pumps setback in them. Here's Lenzi's ski...that's set way back.

 

[Brian_216]

So how does one know how far to set it back, especialy in one of these skis that's short to begin with. Could too much be a bad thing?

 

[Cannibal]

So how does one know how far to set it back, especialy in one of these skis that's short to begin with. Could too much be a bad thing?

That's the tricky part. Those hulls have hours and hours of R&D. Something we can't afford to do. I'm hoping to simplify by using the bottom hull of a 750 all the way up to the motor mounts as one piece. I haven't measured yet, but in order to leave room for exhaust and gas tank clearance, I'm probably going to need to use some setback. You won't know you messed up until after you get it on the water.

 

[Brian_216]

My mounts are gone anyhow from the 951 swap so I'm just going past the bulkhead. I'll glass in aluminum plates for my mounts. I may just use my stock pump and go for a 1" setback and hope for the best.

 

[Cannibal]

My mounts are gone anyhow from the 951 swap so I'm just going past the bulkhead. I'll glass in aluminum plates for my mounts. I may just use my stock pump and go for a 1" setback and hope for the best.

:fingersx:

 

[driftmaster]

Oh, i was talking bout a conversion plate for that 750 motor your putting in the ski. I was wondering why your messing with the motor mounts.

Gotta get that motor in their some how.

My I may just use my stock pump and go for a 1" setback and hope for the best.

Its what I'm doing too, but go mag... even if you have to pick up cans.

Good job covering the set back Cannibal!

 

[Brian_216]

Its what I'm doing too, but go mag... even if you have to pick up cans.


Good job covering the set back Cannibal!

so you are doing a 1" setback or using a stock pump? Looking back at the pics of your pump I see some welds going on. I'm going to assume is a mag pump.

 

[driftmaster]

so you are doing a 1" setback or using a stock pump? Looking back at the pics of your pump I see some welds going on. I'm going to assume is a mag pump.

Its a little over 1". The pump and pump intake both are set back. The pic Can posted shows it very well. After looking myself its how I will be doing the next 300. Hurry up with ur's Can and show us how its done.

The pump is stock. Skat cut out the old vain and put in their mag insert. Then welded it where it wont blow out. Its a grand to have it done to your stocker, comes with prop. I picked it up on pwc for 400 with prop. Smoking ass deal I could not pass up..

Does any one have a link for big bore sleeves?

 

[driftmaster]

That's the tricky part. Those hulls have hours and hours of R&D. Something we can't afford to do.

If we all work together we can can.

 

[Brian_216]

Ok I'll go for 2 inches on mine. I'm just a bit worried it may be too much. Wish we could measure how far back the inake is set on the Bob hull. I know it's a yamaha pump but at least we could have a rough idea where they went with it. 3500 for someones r&d time might be worth it?

 

[Cannibal]

If we all work together we can can.

Ok, you two do two different things, and let me know how it works out and I'll decide to copy you or do something else :biggrin:

Ok I'll go for 2 inches on mine. I'm just a bit worried it may be too much. Wish we could measure how far back the inake is set on the Bob hull. I know it's a yamaha pump but at least we could have a rough idea where they went with it. 3500 for someones r&d time might be worth it?

That's why people pay the money they do for these hulls. The hard part is done. In the end $3500 is a very reasonable price for what you get.

I mean if someone were to go out and spend $200 on a 750 hull (or SN hull for that matter), $200 on a 300 hull, $100+ on glass supplies, $50 on foam, $100 on footholds, then $500 on paint, you'd have over $1150 and tons of labor in something that might be completely worthless.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

On my build I cut the top back an inch and moved the turn plate an inch and cut the pole apart at the weld on the bottom, cut two inches there and had it welded back together. You can just use aluminum plates on top of where the stock engine mounts go, then drill and tap the aluminum for your mount locations.