FX-1 144 in fx-1 pump question
- Thread starter Algonquin
- Start date
seatsR4toilets
Just spell my name right
- Location
- In Your Head
I don't know either....maybe Butti or Idok will come on here and shed some light.
I had lunch a couple weeks ago with Ewok & Idok, and told them that after a few conversations with yamanube that I was gonna do the 144. They said nope, that the 140mm was a better deal, easier overall. They told me what parts to gather up, and that Butti had the equipment to do it as well.
I guess I'm gonna find out, one way or another (lol).
I had lunch a couple weeks ago with Ewok & Idok, and told them that after a few conversations with yamanube that I was gonna do the 144. They said nope, that the 140mm was a better deal, easier overall. They told me what parts to gather up, and that Butti had the equipment to do it as well.
I guess I'm gonna find out, one way or another (lol).
Melmack
(Timothy)
- Location
- New Braunfels, TX
It's an old kawi 550 two bar grate with no scoop. I cut off the rear scoop part of a SJ plastic grate and used it to hold the kawi grate on to the shoe and to fill the gaps on each side of the shoe. If I have time today, I will glass arround it to make a smother transition. The best thing to do is just to weld some metal on the side of a FX grate then drill the two holes for the SJ shoe. I ran out of time to do that. I'll see If I can get some pics before I leave for LSFR today.
Flash-FX
No Square..No Round..FX-1
- Location
- South Jersey Shore
When doing any pump mod you should follow Special-FX's recommendation to remove the floor, de-foam and build up the glass work up from the inside first. That way when you start grinding away for the "new" pump, you won't grind through. There is also a good chance that hull has wet foam from the original rivets that held on the side pads.
i never said it was better,or easyer. i think it is the best balance between cost/labor/and performance.i was totally thrilled with a stock 140mm kaw pump and a 12/17 swirl.the 650 pump just makes alot of sense.it fits in the pump cavity,any fx-1 intake grate works,the ride plate fits and the only "special" part is the intermediate bearing which is very easy to duplicate.
what i dont understand is how the blowsion style 144 setup doesnt eat driveshafts.after lining up a 140 i just dont see how a 144 could line up without raising the entire roof of the pump cavity.
seatsR4toilets
Just spell my name right
- Location
- In Your Head
That's probably how I should have worded it: "best balance".
I'm nervous and excited at the same time. Will certainly be a learning experience for me.
I'm nervous and excited at the same time. Will certainly be a learning experience for me.
- Location
- Corsica FRANCE
The 140 is cheaper and easier (for the glasswork)
but for people like me who ride saltwater 144 housing with wear ring is the way to go .
And the impeller choice and swap i better with a 144.
my opinion
but for people like me who ride saltwater 144 housing with wear ring is the way to go .
And the impeller choice and swap i better with a 144.
my opinion
tom21
havin fun
- Location
- clearwater FL
ah ha!
Melmack
(Timothy)
- Location
- New Braunfels, TX
Check out my recent pics on the Guadalupe River riders thread. I did a bolt up 144 setup. You can now take any 144 pump and bolt it up to my ski. Only parts needed is the shortshaft and the SJ pump shoe. BTW, It worked flawlessly all weekend at the LSFR. Too bad I had some H20 in my gas today.
i am doing this same conversion with the superjet inake. i went the cut and paste method. I basically cut out the pump intake as well as the area that the pump shoe slides into. I then ground the mounting area flat, then went about leveling it off with glass work. my question is... can anyone tell me the distance between the bottom of the tray and the center of the drive shaft? I am looking for the distance I have marked off in this picture with a red verticle line. I want to know that once I have the pump shimmed that is at the correct height. I will post pictures when I finish up. Thanks..
Bernie
Bernie
i am doing this same conversion with the superjet inake. i went the cut and paste method. I basically cut out the pump intake as well as the area that the pump shoe slides into. I then ground the mounting area flat, then went about leveling it off with glass work. my question is... can anyone tell me the distance between the bottom of the tray and the center of the drive shaft? I am looking for the distance I have marked off in this picture with a red verticle line. I want to know that once I have the pump shimmed that is at the correct height. I will post pictures when I finish up. Thanks..
Bernie
this pic the shows the alignment problem i was talking about earlier.on my 140mm pump have to use shims under the rear motor mounts to make it all line up properly. a 144mm would have to be worse.
- Location
- League City, TX
Not really.
Look at the mounting shims on the smaller pump If you lift the smaller pump up so that the actual mounting point is on the red line it almost lines up perfect which is why it really isn't that hard to make the pump swap work.
The hard part in my opinion was to install the pump shoe.
Look at the mounting shims on the smaller pump If you lift the smaller pump up so that the actual mounting point is on the red line it almost lines up perfect which is why it really isn't that hard to make the pump swap work.
The hard part in my opinion was to install the pump shoe.
that's why i cut out the entire area to which the pump she slides into. i cut it out of a beater squarenose i had in the yard. (this also allowed me to drop a SJ intake grate right in) i then ground the pump mounting area flush and built in my own glassed in 'shims' that lift the pump a bit so the center of the pump does not rock against the bottom on the tray the center line.
i am looking for the distance between the center of the shaft on a a stock fx-1 to the bottom of the try so I can shim the pump enough so that it is at the exact same height as it is with the 122 mm pump..
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Bern,
I can't take the measurement for you, my ski is already converted. Centering the shaft in the same location a the stock pump doesn't mean it will fit up perfect. The midshaft locating pins set the required location of the driveshaft. Your midshaft assembly should slide onto the driveshaft and fit perfectly into the locating pins without any directional pressure. Can you mock-up with foam and use the midshaft to set the pump location?
- Location
- Marshall, AR
The price point of the kawi parts is a good thing as well as availability. Fx1 driveshafts are hard to come by these days but with the kawi route it opens you up to plenty of parts for years to come for cheap. Whenever you see a fx1 shaft go up for sale on here it usually gets lapped up, and you dont see them very often. Some thing to think about as fx1 parts go the way of the dinosaur.
i realize I did it the hard way.. this was kind of a side project i got into while i got away from riding and into other hobbies. i figured if i could get that measurement it could get me in the ball park.. then go about aligning the shaft in the typical manor. once i get it cleaned up i will post some pictures in it's own thread.