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Mine has been like that since I threw the pipe on, tried playing with carb settings and pipe screws for a full season to no real difference. I learned to love the light-switch throttle though

Well I finall I finally got a new pole on it. It's a -2" PLD aluminum pole and it sure feels lighter and definately stronger. Got it bare aluminum and polished it out. Not completely done with install yet

Carb rebuild sounds like a good idea. Mine plugged up after a year of sitting, two years probably got to it. Also, add a fuel filter in the supply line. Cheap insurance

It's been a little over a year since I've last been active on this forum but I thought I could come back with a new thread. Well here's the run down, I have a 92 750sx, rebuilt the small pin in it last year and I'm happy with the way the thing pulled. factory pipe, R&D head, MSD Enhancer (now...

I have a worx extended D-cut plate, but I'm contemplating doing those rails on my stock plate to see how differently it corners.

Duralast Gold from autozone. They're AGM batteries and the ETX16L is made in good ol USA. Been beating on three of them for two years and no issues whatsoever.

I've been running the Autozone duralast gold ETX16L batteries for two years thrashing them like hell in my couch and stand ups. Not a single failure yet, and they are AGMs and all say made in the good ol USA.

Well the new season is starting and I still haven't gotten this figured out. What symptoms would a broken baffle in the waterbox have? I think I'll start checking out the bottom end and see if maybe the crank seals do leak. It'd be great to fix this for memorial day

Priorities changed for a while and I strayed away from jet skiing but I'm back again. No, I never got it fixed and I replaced every electrical part of the ski and the carb, so I'm still stuck. I'm going to drop it off at a mechanic for the winter and hopefully I'll have her back up and running...

I just left the cables disconnected, I believe on 750s the overheat sensor is normally open and the circuit closes when it overheats. On sxrs I believe you use a jumper because it advances your timing 6 degrees right away

I also got the flywheel off and woodruff key is perfect. No problems down there. I would tear it apart but I don't want to do anything unnecessary after everything else I've pulled and replaced. It sounds perfect though and doesn't run away or run lean. How can the crank be out of phase?

*update* new voltage regulator in and no difference. I've just about gone over everything in this ski except the bottom end. Any other ideas?

Have a voltage regulator coming in the mail this week. I'll let you guys know how it turns out

That would've been the overheat sensor or the stator. But I disconnected my overheat sensor and replaced the stator twice

I think that was just a bug that flew through the shot at 10 seconds, yes checked all grounds and replaced battery cables with new cables. I tried messing with the Rev limiter to see if that changed anything but no difference. I have it set all the way up right now. The reason I bought the msd...

Am I right to assume it's electrical? When hooked up to a tach its so consistent, like 4200 rpms every time its held open.

Here's a video of what it's doing, it makes no difference in the water:

That's what I kept thinking, but at first I always thought it would mainly affect the charging of the battery.

I know, and there's no one local who knows anything about these skis haha but I'll take a video this weekend just to give an idea of what it's doing.