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i rode for over 10 years with a sproingy-doingy pole. it was dandy.... until i got my x-metal setup. tight is the way to go! up until a few weeks ago, i had kept it moderatly tight. it would stay and i could move it easy. then it got loose so i CRANKED it down and i have been riding like that...

check!

um, have you tried pole springs???

youre going to need the mounts on the top of the head for the red pipe. i like the power delivery of the red.... but its so heavy, in the way, and a pain in the azz. as long as you install the red pipe properly, its a reliable pipe. the b pipe is still the shizz

popularity is everything around here :rolleyes:

beach = salt + steel = corrosion. i think itll work good for a little while.

46mm sounds like too much carburetion for a 650.

you beat me to it again, you bastard!:Banane01:

i can agree with that. checking clearance on an engine that is being held at WOT, on a high RPM engine, for long periods on a low-squish motor is a lot more important than engines that are built to brap around and never be held at WOT.

yes, i bend the solder into an L shape. i also bend the end of the solder into a U where it hits the cylinder wall as to not get a false reading from the clipped/broken/cut solder end.

the piston wont rock if you put once pc of solder parallel to the wristpins. i check squish by putting the solder at the front of the front cyl, back of the front cyl, front of the back cyl, then back of the back cyl..... all using the same pc of solder. theres no extra head or piston...

i think those were called "funboats".

seems like a lot more work than sticking a piece of solder down the hole. :dunno:

he also said double lips :haha:

rickters.... eh. i like them better than 24/7s, but not better than cyclones. WCFs are like cyclones but with better coverage over the foot.

i know the midshaft HOUSINGS are different between early and late SJs. i believe the 90-93 were the smaller bolt pattern that are different than the blasters and 94-07 SJs. its the actual shaft im asking about, not the housing.

good call, darin! id imagine that wouldnt be a dealer item. id probably have to hunt those down at a bearing/seal joint.

chucky, are you saying to press the shaft into the housing further than normal? (as in, toward the rear of the ski?) i was thinking less. but what youre saying makes sense. use a washer to compensate for the diff at the couplers. is that right?

i have a midshaft thats in good shape, 'cept for where the seals contact it. would it be crazy to put the shaft through the carrier, but just a c-hair from being where it needs to be to let the new seals ride on a fresh surface? speedy sleeves maybe? is the shaft toast?

as far as i know, 90-07 midshafts are the same length, but the early ones had different size threads for the coupler. would this mean that ANY SJ midshaft would work on a blaster, given the correct coupler/thread?[/COLOR]