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With that much power in a light boat, you would think the kid could touch his feet without bending over by now.

what spdwrx said. rear of hub is cut to sit closer to the pump veins, impros usually recommends 3mm to have a safe clearance from the pump veins. You can go more but it would be a good idea to send in your pump too to make sure there wont be any clearance issues.

Running it through the head first is not good. You want to run it from the mani first (bottom outlet) so you ensure that entire cavity is being filled with water, running it from the top may not fill the system completely. Same reason why you run the headpipe water into the bottom outlet and out...

Thanks Wax, it's always good to get more manuals.

I bet Skywalker wishes he could do that for a few hrs..

well I hooked up my tiny tach this weekend and set idle at 1000RPM, then just adjusted the lower screw until it ran smoothly. Since I thought I was getting a few lean cut outs the day before running WOT I richened the high speed some and planned on tuning it with the tach. well you must have...

Just wondering if you can tell very much by looking at the burn pattern on your pistons. I pulled my head a few weeks ago since I was curious to see how my pistons were looking since I ported my engine over the winter. Can you tell much from this?

So the low adjuster is basically determined by the engine setup and idle screw and changing jets/n&s/spring wont have an effect?? Is that correct? Just doesnt seem right to me.

yeah, i guess i just had my own thoughts how things worked. low speed adjustment is used in conjunction with the idle screw to set idle and make it smooth. Guess theres no need in changing the pilot jet since the ski is nicely tuned right now.

Gas runs through the pilot jet before the adjustor so I thought it would have an impact. I'm don't know, its just how I thought it would work, I'm just trying to get a good handle on the carb operation. Mikuni does have you setup your adjuster and popoff before the pilot jet. :confused:

Today was official read up on carb information day because I was really tired of not know how to really tune my boat. Also my boat used to always start with a push of a button and did not need to be choked or primed. Now it does and it's really annoying to me. The settings I have are just what...

OK, in another thread someone suggested a splash pic/annimation/movie to show what the X is. I started to make a few splash images that could be shown randomly like an ad banner or they could be all combined into an annimated gif (larger file to load) that would cycle through the pics...

I need one of those.:17:

dont worry so much about it, its not rocket science. its roughly 3" radius, use whatever circle you have laying around for a template. leave 1/2 to 3/4 in on each side and make a half circle. i've had mine for over a year as well and no problems, hit bottom a few times pretty good and nothing...

after its glued, wrap it with some glass or carbon to tie everything together.

Forgot to mention, props to Mark for setting the whole thing up! :biggthumpup:

It's gonna cost more probably to do a build up from a bare hull. Parts and such are gonna nickel and dime ya to death. But if you have a complete square your working from it shouldnt be bad.

I'd do it for ya but my gif annimator was on my old hd that crashed. You would have to have a real short vid for it to be small in size and still look good.

It's centered enough to cut on a lathe? How would you mount it, the bolts? I did mine in a mill with a boring bar. Centered it with an indicator. I would think its a PITA if you tried it on a lathe.

round looks better in most peoples opinion. also much more aftermarket products (body wise) all the stuff you listed are interchangeable, there are some differences but not much.