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It's ok Linkman some people here don't get out much

nope I have seen several of you guys over there , you can't hide .

There was a sticky before it went down about uploading it to a cloud platform, every time they have done any kind of major revision to that site it never went as planned, I didn't expect this time to be any different, so far they have exceed my expectation on that one.

I would suggest checking the alignment of those couplers closely upon reassembly, BTW you cannot do that with the rubber dampener in place , it tends to pull stuff into alignment when it's actually not in alignment.

I probably could adjust it by ear on the trailer and make it run correctly, but yeah I have been doing it for a minute now. For the issue he stated what I posted will work. Teaching someone to properly tune a ski is a bit like feeding a baby, you can't start them out on steak and potatoes or...

Who knows what bearings are used in the his kit, but regardless of bearing mfg what I have found on sealed bearings is that they are not always greased that well from the factory and the grease they use isn't always of high quality , I have seen this a lot on ATV wheel bearings, what we used...

Simply put get a note pad , slowly turn in your high and low adjusters and carefully count the number of turns, lets say for instance you are at 3/4 of a turn out now, write that down on the note pad or you can write it inside the hood of the ski with a sharpie, now you have your baseline...

I was lucky enough to start out on 440's and 550's back then it was pretty simple, nose the ski against the bank, set the high speed to get the highest pitch out of the engine then come out about 1/2 richer on the high speed screw , set the low speed for the best idle then set the mid screw to...

One of the main differences between the Mikuni performance carbs and the stock carbs is the low speed circuit, stock carbs are designed to meet emissions, they can be modded for other purposes, the performance Mikuni carbs are designed for performance and flow a lot more fuel in the low speed...

Read through the thread in the link below and see if it answers your questions, lots of info in there. https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/billet-rn-pole-to-sn-conversion-bracket-hazard-bracket.57697/

I had to give it a few love taps with the deadblow but I have it tucked in pretty well and I believe I can have the mount back welded on to line up with the upper manifold hole, a stud, coupler nut a long bolt and a spacer should fix her up nicely., I will know more when I get the engine back in...

damn the rumors of your early demise were false then, good to see you man !

I am going to slice the mount off the pipe and keep it. I am thinking I can come up with some kind of bracket coming off the two stock mounting holes for the stock exhaust bracket and then weld the mount back on where it lines up properly.

Dibs lol

Has anyone successfully run a Coffman sizzler pipe with a factory pipe exhaust manifold, the manifold I have has no provision for that chamber mounting point, I am sure I can fab one up but just wondering if it is really needed .

Purchased a Mariner Yamaha exhaust manifold from him, it was packaged damn near bombproof , was exactly as stated in the ad and arrived in a timely fashion , thanks Sven.

Pretty sure Lanier is out unless a lot has changed over the years.

The GPR is the easy one once you remove the battery tray you have a lot more room than inside the XLT 1200 hull, I absolutely hate working on those.

Next time you look at one of my builds and say that's just crazy remember there are people out there doing stuff like this !