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bottom of page 3 http://www.factorypipe.com/Technical/Instructions/701sj01.pdf

don't worry, you'll be impaled by then :bigeyes:

argh, i thought about it, but i think im gonna stay home, 3-4 hr drive each way sucks on day trips

water has zero pressure when i comes out of your pisser, by then all the energy has been converted into kinetic energy (simplified is your water flow) or been lost due to restrictions/friction. i believe jet is asking what the water pressure is when it comes from the pump throught the bulkhead.

this is a overly simplified slide of whats going on... basically you have a certain amount of energy coming from the pump due to your engine pump setup, this stays constant at a given rpm. your flow rate at the end of the system will be be determined by how much restriction/friction loses you...

it'll clear a b-pipe, why worry about anything else:cool2:

ask at greenhulk.net, they would be able to give ya some good info i bet

the only time i have had any air in the pumps is if they have sat awhile. push it until all the air is out, stop and let the handle come back up to fill completely with resin. good to go.

there is are three holes inside your pipe which spray water in you pipe. the screws adjust how much water is sprayed. the different locations alter the way the pipe acts. so you can tune your pipe by controlling where and how much water is sprayed.

dont forget you need the UMI steering with aftermarket plates too, an additional ~$125. (unless you custom rig something up to use stock/other bushings)

lol, i think thats why the mod is more popular than the limited. that and the shear fact that is called a mod.

originally i ran my pipe 3/4 open on the bottom screw, mid and top closed. ski ran poor when i tried to run just the top open various amounts. now after the porting, i have the bottom cracked and my top open a little but i forget the exact amount. use the couple settings people suggest to...

i am thinking of trying this way, left just feels messed up. :frown:

are westcoast resonators worth anything? i was ripping the guts out of a sj and found that it had this instead of a waterbox. never heard it run. any benifit?

i still use mine, bored it to 84.5mm and removed all that obstruction (slightly smaller than 85 to compensate for the 86mm sections) but that was a pain since you have to fill in holes. you dont need to switch, he was just saying IF you do have problems with cavitation, you could swap out the...

i think mike's owned a ski or two in his day to know:wink:. if your used to standups the blaster is pretty stable. expecially a stock one in flatwater. now if you come from a 3 seater, thats a whole different story. my personal opinion would be to pass on a stock blaster on flatwater. the few...

doubt anyone would want to swap, the plastic nozzles (90-93) have a huge stock siphon bilge obstruction.

my plastic nozzle was out of round. measured between 82 and 86mm.

you only lose 2 in or so on the lower half of the ski, not much actual foam volume, removing the front nose pc would decrease it more.

i run a 13/15 cutback in a ported 61x, bpipe, that has the ww cone and bored nozzle. i like it. just experiment by swapping the cones out back to back.