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Who do I sell to in South Africa? Sending back overseas will require taking the knock of shipping My engine building skills are pretty good, that's why I could fix it

I fixed crack on cylinder (Nikasil ran into crack so was there from manufacturing), plus a bunch of other stuff. I have plenty of pics to substantiate. Plus I had other people contact me and suggest I send it to Phil as those were the only ones performing.

Maybe you need to learn what quality is. Engine running great now for what a LEMON the cylinder and head were

Good to hear, I had to mod my head to use DASA domes as the TPE ones flex between the bolts and leak

I can see me shopping up a storm when the Lockdown is over

Less water to stinger = less back-pressure in pipe = more bottom end. There is a limit but more likely to be found on a smaller engine

Most likely cluster causing issue. Disconnect cluster plugs that go between start/stop switch and harness that runs to back off hull. Plug start/stop directly to harness

I am running a 90-deg 47mm-id(2"-od) at the 3o'clock position. Rest of my system is 63mm. I ride at 4500ft so my stinger can be smaller than someone at sea-level.

I run centre-bleed on my 1200. Seemed to give more power down low. Be careful of back-pressure, you need a slightly bigger stinger compared to end-bleed

Yes, over that thin tube that the cable slides in and out of. Cut it so the rubber can fit back on tube and that will stop it from sliding around

Then it wouldn't be able to bend through ski.

Rod is not the problem, the sleeve needs to be reinforce to stop the cable rope inner flexing too much and kinking the sleeve

Find some Alu tube to go over the sleeve of the cable at the pump. It will prevent the B1 cable bending/kinking

Rideplate off. Loosen hoses and steering cable. Remove 4 bolts holding ears of pump. Pump slides out with shaft. It might stick a bit, depending on when last it was serviced.

Pull pump out and start. Then you can hear engine alone and feel bearings in pump and check wear-ring. Will PM you

That story has Kretz all over it Good price for a running B2. Let me know what you need. I have a friend with a B1 that lives in BWB, he will be back in town for a month from this weekend. I have taught him a lot so he can check it out and see what actually needs doing

Torch will only show lumps, you need to remove and measure with a feeler gauge. Has to be machined out. I can get you plastic one that you can push in after machining.

I grew up in PE and built a ported engine for someone's WB1 there last year. I've been in Jhb nearly 8yrs. You ride Kings Beach? Bluewater Bay?

Yes, on a Yamaha it is stainless steel piece inside of aluminuim housing, it can be machined out and replaced. Bulges can touch impeller, wearing it done and increasing the clearance which causes cavitation and loss of speed. The maximum gap between impeller and wear-ring is 0,6mm. When cranking...

WB2's are really solid skis. The weak point on all the old Yami skis is the wear-ring, check for bulges and cracks from galvanic corrosion. Where in RSA are you?