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i have 2 62t cdi in ct. they are interchangeable

im with you here. especially when it looks like a 12 year old playdough'd it in. the rest of the hull does look nice though

I have seen them attached to the foothold bracket and the bag velcroed in the foothold pocket

check crank phase. i wonder if the crank spun?

@Skatingevan

oem yamaha starter is the best option

we have tons of 225+ lb guys in my riding group all who can flip both flatwater and surf/ boats. even have a buddy who is 300+ who flatwater flips a 964 stock stroke. A good aftermarket hull with a 701 will flip on small boat wake if u do your part. your budget will get you a solid boat wake...

one of my buddies has an m1 hes about to post for sale. its on the east coast unfortunately but im sure it could be shipped.

@tricky1 maybe?

OEM 155 with 701 in a quality aftermarket hull is a great first aftermarket ski setup.

701 (porting helps), b pipe and oem 155 in a good hull is a great first aftermarket ski in my opinion. That setup will flip on boat wakes and surf if you do your part. and then you have a good hull if you decide you want more power.

run it strapped to the trailer in the water with the hood off. should be pretty obvious where your issues are

link?

no need to replace unless there is an issue

i just dispense it right from the tube to the cases and use my finger to spread it out if needed. i have never tried rolling it.

I only use 1184. i don't know who started using 1211 for case sealant as it is not designed for that application. 1184 does tack up quickly but if u prep your assembly you have time. i assemble the crank in the top half of the cases with seals. then apply a thin layer of 1184 and drop the...

i have taken a bunch of fittings out of actually new pipes and the threads look like that. i dont think they tap deep enough and then just mash the fittings in

the chamber is 1/8 npt. almost all the powerfactors i have taken the fittings out of have mangled up threads. chase it with a 1/8 npt tap and u should be ok. the tank shoudl be the same thread size.

the grey wire is tachometer output and the brown is a map switch. both are not needed if you do not wish to use these functions. ( most people do not) you need to add an inline fuse to the red wire to power the zeel. follow the colors on the wiring diagram for the rest of the wires

sold