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Obviously the only thing to do is counter their crappy customer service with some shady actions. Need to find someone buying a new battery, have them run it for a week and send yours back in for warranty.

But isn't that second fitting just a threaded barb, not a cast boss? If so, that might be enough clearance. You may still need to flip your steering cable to the top, as you pull that trim, with it mounted on the bottom, you actually move the cable in an arc pulling the cable and steering you...

Cool boots, and the ankle support looks great. But they kinda remind me of something....

Stop bothering him.....he needs to build my engine...lol

This forum does too, but that's the main issue with the Darkness. I started having this invisible text issue months ago on my work computer. I switched to "boring blue" and haven't had the issue since. However, when someone tells the forum to make their text white, I can't see chit. I talked...

Figured as much, was just hoping for the other answer....lol. Guess I need to get to sanding.

Just curious, I'm not a painter, but can/will an epoxy primer self level cracking gel coat? Do I need to lightly sand each crack, or sand the gel coat all the way off?

Fugg me...this is a lot of work. Laid the other two layers of carbon on the rocker section, laid the rear boxes, laid a single layer of carbon on the bond rails, mocked up the exhaust, 5200'd the tubes in and built a battery box. Here's some pics of the hull prepped for glass...

Yep, you'd have to cut it open to modify it. If you have an aluminum welder, you can do it yourself. If not, having it welded up is going to cost you about what an A/M box costs.

The aftermarket ones offer a weight savings by itself, and hold less water which can equal faster reving and weight savings (by not holding as much water)...plus they sound bitchen.

Here's the thread: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/90513-Hull-Building-USS-ROOSKI&p=1090421&viewfull=1#post1090421 I don't know enough about the product (though I have a few yards of it here) and really didn't read much of that thread.

I asked a bit about composites a while back...the consensus was not to use coremat at all. Can't remember who, but there were pictures of the de-lamination at the coremat. Ya, it's nice in theory to add thickness and strength without weight, but I guess not the best for our applications.

Yep, I've known many to not circle. I've also known plenty of people that have added a spring to the steering plate to aid in the circling. In the end, either don't let go...ever, or it's just best to get a lanyard face for your start/stop switch.

449852 posts to go through, you'd better get busy....sorry, I don't have the Cliff's note's for the past year+

Make absolute sure when you are done that your steering plate hits the stop before the nozzle bottoms out or else you'll break your steering cable.

Absolutely. Those rails have a lot to do with handling. Infact many aftermatket hulls have wider and deeper rails to improve handling.

Rub rails? Care to expand a bit? Are you talking about cutting 7/8" off of the vertical section of rail where the top and bottom decks are glued together all the way around? Like leaving no vertical portion of that at all, just horizontal?

Ah...good ol Ace and Gary...funny stuff there

I should also say that I have some Blackjacked SXR carbs and he doesn't do that mod on them anymore. He says he gets more out of the thin tube atomizer and it's easier to tune. Coming from a guy that can make more money by selling me some Blackjack 44s, I'd say he must be very convinced that...

No, someone kicked him in the butt.