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Gera, I would save yourself a bunch of trouble and call or e-mail Dave at impros. He helped me figure out that a 10-16 hooker would do the job, and he was dead on. Every engine set-up is different, and I think Dave does a pretty good job figuring out how best to get the power to the water.

Fixed it for ya. :biggthumpup:

Patrick just keeps churning out goodness.

That is killer! The only thing left to do will be to make an adjustable length coupler or midshaft so that engine placement can be adjusted AT THE LAKE. Good stuff man!

I'd recommend an adjustable X-metal pole. They look great on the SXR's. For $1300 you should be able to get a pole, steering, bushings, bars, throttle, chinpad, grips, and still have a bunch left over for some other goodies.

The pump is basically just converting the mechanical energy (rotating shaft) into hydraulic energy (fluid flowing under a little pressure). Whatever power the the engine makes, the pump converts (ideally). Granted, there are mechanical and volumetric losses, yadda, yadda, but the basic idea is...

Yup - Canceled item. Back to the drawing board for tanks I guess. Looks like that tank will work perfect for you chad!

I'll check with the warehouse on Monday.

AWESOME!!!!!!! That solves all kinds of problems. I think I'll order one up this afternoon. I better get one before the warehouse is out of stock. Thanks for getting the info for us chad!

That looks perfect! Nice job! That external fuel fill just behind the pole bracket will look really sharp I bet!

Killer! Those things are only $38 retail. You wouldn't happen to know the capacity, would you?

Is that a 300 or a 300SX tank you're running in there? What size are they? Pricing on new ones is GREAT!

Nice. How many tubes do you think you'll use on the complete build?

Is the green glue the plexus stuff, or marinetex? Where do you get either of them, and do you need a special gun to dispense it?

Way to go Joe! I think the cold water is a better incentive to get all the way around on the backies.

If you think about what you're foot is doing in the foothold, you don't need tons of padding under your toes. You push your feet into the holds and it squeezes the top of your foot and your toes/ball area. That part isn't going to move, and won't feel any "impact". Your heel on the other hand is...

I've found that that 25mm pad under your heel, tapered to nothing under your toes makes a WORLD of difference! I did this on my Rickters, and they are super comfortable now. I also padded the top with 25mm, but sanded a lot of it away to fit the top of my foot. I am now convinced that spending a...

BIG. You'll be leaning forward a lot. At the very least I would put 25mm padding under your heels, and taper it down to nothing under your toes. That will help angle your feet forward and make it a little more comfortable.

I'm 6'-1" and have a -2.5 bottom. My footholds are 10" from the bulkhead, and I have a -4" Xmetal pole with the -3.25" steering. I also mounted my pivot bracket 1" farther forward. It's just about the right place if I use a stock length ride plate. If I use a -2.5" ride plate, the nose rides...

Necessary equipment (along with gasoline) to ride here in the mitten state!