Want to have some fun? Go to a car show that has a chassis dyno. I swear I've seen ricers nearly in tears when they see how weak their cars actually are. One guy even had a "300WHP" sticker on his back windshield. He put down 180.
I just cleaned and sanded the pump and base, then glued them together with 5200. I'll try it this weekend, and if this doesn't hold I'll get the stronger base.
Does anyone make a stronger base for the Rule bilge pumps? I'm sick of needing to reattach a new base to my hull every time I breath to hard on one of those plastic tabs while I'm working on my ski.
Thanks, that's what I needed.
I would call JSS, but I can get the parts for about 5 bucks this way, all marine grade. Plus the ski is going into storage this fall so I don't really need anything top of the line.
Thanks, it's a stock head. I just wanted to make sure that sending all the water through the pipe wouldn't cause too much backpressure and prevent proper cylinder cooling.
Finishing up a new engine installation, and I'm wondering about the bypass off the head. It's a stock 61x with a b-pipe, single cooling. I had a second outlet for a bypass on the head of my last engine, but my new one just has the single outlet. Should I just run everything from the head to...
I'm bolting everything onto a shortblock tonight, and I need to know what to use as a sealant on the gaskets. I have some Yamabond4 lying around, will this do the trick?
Had a little trouble in the ICW yesterday. Wasn't doing anything too crazy, and the engine was running great. Suddently I had a huge power loss and the engine got really loud. Then it completely stopped. Swam it to shore to find that the engine wouldn't turn at all. That and it siezed so...
Need to get the driveshaft out of a toasted pump housing. Is it just pressed in there? I don't want to use too much force to get it out before I know what I'm dealing with.
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