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Thats a solid crew! Be glad you have them, I don't know another person within 100 miles that rides stand-ups haha

Getting closer…

I am still having a weird issue where my ski will bog after it gets subbed. When doing nose stabs, I'm not able to pull myself back out of the water. This is especially annoying because i'm getting pretty good at them and I should be able to rip away out of the trick. This also happens anytime I...

Look how thick the glass is just in front of the intake grate mount! 144 tunnel needs some trimming… zip zap and now it’s raining… so no more cutting or sanding today.

Does anyone use the Red RV antifreeze? or just Green stuff... I have always used this stuff

Click the report link at the bottom the post, it will alert the staff and keep this garbage off the site! I already reported the last 5-6 posts he made this morning.

I’m also very confused as to how this FX-1 ride plate is going to work with this 144 tunnel…

Well, it seems like this 144 tunnel is a bit offset from the 120 tunnel. @hornedogg79 you mentioned that this conversion places the 144 pump about 2” back from where the 120 mounts. So I would be aligning the intake grate mounts, not the pump shoe area? If that is correct, there will not be any...

Also, I still have another FX-1 hull that I am going to repair... That being said, I still have a nice bottom for making a mold if I need to. I was also seriously considering just carefully cutting that broken hull apart and making a mold of the insert holders/ motor mounts and the bottom deck...

Interesting... I am about to remove the tunnel right now. It will probably make more sense when I am able to mock the 144 tunnel in place rather than just looking at them side by side ha

After a grueling day of picking and sanding I was able to remove all of the bonding glue from the bondrail and motor mounts. It was a major pain and it was so hot yesterday! But I got a lot of sanding done and making progress, woohoo. Today I will be cutting the pump tunnel out. I spoke with...

That is true, @Sanoman taught me everything I know :) (not kidding) But to elaborate on that, cracks should usually be ground with a "V" making the crack surface a little bit wider so the resin has more area to grab. Not through the crack, but on both sides of the crack. The crack would then...

Foam Factory is the jam. I have bought a few different kinds of foam from them for many different projects! Fast shipping too

Yes you will need power tools and also some hand sanding in areas. I would just do 1 layer of that 1208 on the cracks in the tray, for now. Like I said, I wouldn't do more just because it might cause more cutting or sanding later. I would use at least 2 layers for your tray if you cut it out to...

This probably won't help, but its a lead! https://www.x-h2o.com/threads/2-300sx-hulls.203423/

Yes 1208 is lighter and easier to work with. The reason I would not add too much glass to the cracks is because if you ever want to cut it open and really fix it, you might create more work for yourself (sanding or cutting) Yes, just sand past the gelcoat, get a nice bare fiberglass surface and...

All parts listed are still available

Steering is still available

Thanks man! Laying basic glass isn't hard, but it takes patience and prep work. If you want to add some beef to your tray area, you could order some 1208 bi-axial fiberglass mat. It is usually sold by the yard, so 1 yard would probably be fine for you. If you plan on doing any re-enforcement...

I grew up racing BMX in Florida and those are some of the best memories I have. These bikes are great, but they are just hanging in the living room and hardly get ridden. I wish I could give them to my nephews, but unfortunately they aren't responsible enough to have anything this nice... haha...