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You are lookin for love in all the wrong places. Dont worry about changing the intake side until you have a good pipe and ported cylinder. Most of all, learn how to tune your current setup before making any changes from the flame arrestor down.

The old 750 is good for slalom in smooth water. Tubbies make the other hulls work ok.

A large crank will not fit inside a small case. Cylinder selection does not matter, the only difference is port height. Always make sure to verify clearance between the sleeve and crank wheel. Some early cylinders sleeves will contact a large pin crank.

Yep, a stroker, with 95mm pistons, and programable ignition, with a dry pipe. Anything less is just a waste of money.

Our engines are made from an alloy that is corrosion resistant. The main problem is around bolts, make sure to seal around every bolt head.

Not Teflon tape. Thread sealant with Teflon. It seals out water and has anti-gall protection for stainless steel. Anti-seize has anti-gall qualities but will wash out faster than grease or pipe dope. Put a little RTV on the nose cone and the threads will stay perfectly dry forever.

Use teflon pipe thread sealant in the threads and more importantly, use rtv on the nose cone and shaft. All the metal cones must be sealed or else they are just there for looks.

Are you sure about the rpm. Most RF tachs are not accurate with MSD. A good stock blaster prop/pump will be turning 6800 at 47mph. Does the pipe hit hard from idle or does it take a second or two to respond? A high port cylinder with stock prop will be a little sluggish without high compression.

Organizations do this in order to manage their fan base, remember that spending follows enthusiasm. They want every rider to spend as much as possible while protecting the core of superstars that everyone wants to be. The superstars overall image is what draws money into the sport. It could be...

There is an advantage, but with smaller displacements, it is expensive for what you get. Basically the 62T case with 44s will hit a little harder than a 61X case. The difference becomes more noticeable with higher port cyls and/or larger displacements.

That impeller has plenty of load, it can be pitched down if response is a little slow.

For machined parts use 6061 T6. The 5052 is best for formed parts. Either may be used well depending on "your" application. Whatever you do, dont use 2024 or 7075 anywhere corrosion is an issue.

It is worth using a 61X case because they are so cheap and the 6M6 case needs to be cut for 701 cylinder. Performance wise there is no noticeable difference.

You have a good pipe and prop for a stock cylinder. The stock porting is limiting your thrust and low compression is killing response. So get some port work and raise compression to 91 octane. All these high compression freestyle tunes need a programable ignition in order to run full throttle...

Just remove any obvious high spots, parts should be shipped bolted together or carefully separated.

There is a chance that this guy likes to ride around, go fast, and chase bouys. Things that almost ALL A/M hulls suck at doing.

Open the top screws 1/8 turn until acceleration is strongest.

Try some small holes and a vacuum pump first. Unless you really want to make that kind of mess.

A 155 will be noticeably flatter for the same load compared to a 144. A 144 with 18 degree trailing edge is about the same as 15-16 degree trailing edge on 155 depending on nozzle selection.

A 5205 was used behind 1100s without problems. Considering its greater thrust capacity it should be a standard mod for larger engines.