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Try power tuning the top screw on the trailer. Just sink it as deep as possible, hold it wide open and peak out the top screw. You should get best acceleration with it set a little rich of peak rpm.

The smallest exhaust leak will cause everything you describe.

Maybe $100-$200 difference. $1400 carbs on a 701 is not a very good value, if that is important.

Oversized carbs generally work great for "freestyle" throttling as long as the pilot/popoff is rich enough. A stock or other somewhat restrictive flame arrestor can make them work better on small engines.

For some reason they used 120 degree sleeves on a 110 degree cylinder casting. Be careful raising the roof because it is close to the water jacket. A 62T cyl casting and sleeve are matched at 120 degrees. I am going to try lowering the sleeves on a 61X and raising the cylinder for 7000 rpm...

I was considering the context of this venue. He may not be very happy if everyone else is just trying to do tricks on flat water.

Look at it like this. You will be getting about $3000 worth of new useable engine/electrical parts and a $4000 stock hull. If you want to race then a stock hull must be used. Otherwise a very long and heavy hull isnt too much fun.

Freestyle competition is subjective. Judging get corrupted by politics and profit motives.

A low leading edge angle allows incoming water to form a boundary layer and stick to the front surface. This improves hookup at low speeds because the inlet pressure is low. Old straight pitched impellers worked OK at high speeds but would vibrate badly out of the hole because of flow separation...

Do like everyone else and bypass it completely.

Most modern impellers are very flat at the leading and camber a lot to the trailing edge. Raising the outside trailing edge reduces load significantly. Large hub props are more difficult to work so they need to be close to begin with. Small hubs can be bent a lot at both ends if needed.

You can get a little more if you separate the A/M parts and sell the ski as stock. A very clean 91 with all the goodies sold fast at $1500 here in Dallas.

The 9-17 has the lowest load of your three impellers. If it is in good shape leave it in the pump. The "older" 13-16 is close to the "newer" 9-17. Your Solas "I" has a lot more load and needs to be flattened out for any decent response. I had to take some load out of an "S" (14-17) in order to...

Condition is everything in an old ski. A Rickter slides around just as much as a 650sx yet nobody complains so its mostly negative sentiment. All stock skis made before 1994 need a lot of work before they are worth riding. Newer SJs need a little less but they are all old POS now.

It is unfortunate that they have no retard curve at high rpm like Kawasakis do.

Yes, it is too loud unless you want negative attention. It will also eat a hole through the hull when the pads come off.

What is your peak RPM? You can bend your 9-15 a little if you think its too much load. I would expect it would be about right with an 85mm nozzle.

Jetting is not a problem at all, the 28 is easy because it is small. The problem is that it is too small and reduces power. A stock 38 and manifold from any 1991-1996 650 will flow enough for full power in most cases.

It is about as easy to install a 60 ohm resistor and have an effective rev limiter. Without one it will occasionally over rev and every time it does bearings will skid and loads will spike. It all adds up to shorter crank life.

They can still free rev to 9000, that is over revving a 701.