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A complete system ?? we sell new complete systems. Im guessing its for a Superjet, https://www.waxracingproducts.com/products/wax-racing-complete-yamaha-kawasaki-exhaust-system

Thats bizare you are not getting the full 34 degrees. The static angle should be 115 but thats depending on where you stator is, then again if your are at 113 i would say your stator is retarded and this 113 should actually advance your timing not retard it

Increasing the squish made it more likely to deto but i dont think its a deto is Oh i thought we were talking about a speed werx pipe here to be honest, The 760 zeel timing is the best one out there as its works on a pulse as it goes past a lump. the rising rate/voltage ones would not be as...

What was your squish before. increasing it is likely to cause more detonation. its sounding more like pipe heat to me so you are right on with stinger size

yup i know the answer. they start up in a low timing to make it easier to start. fire it up and measure it

Yes, it will flow more than enough. The 80 mm hole in the top has 2.5 times the area of your 50 mm carbs. Even if we assume a 10% flow loss due to the right-angle on the front—which would be a massive and unlikely loss—you’re still getting 2.3 times the airflow of your 50s. On our system...

That’s exactly why we designed our surf plate. We spent a lot of time getting it right so it performs just as well as aftermarket flame arrestors—without the drawbacks. I run it on my race boat. I tried all sorts of other systems, but they didn’t flow as well. The old adapters used to sit right...

What size carbs are the question people should be asking

thank you. I really appreciate it. you have me thinking that maybe i would make a bolt for it in the next batch as its easier for the end user. it will be a custom bolt but easy to make. Heck i will put in the list and start working on them

Change the allen to a 10mm with a washer. this will allow you to use a 10mm and give more room

Pretty sure they were made in Australia i have seen a few around,

https://www.waxracingproducts.com/products/wax-racing-144mm-reloader-pump-cone?srsltid=AfmBOoph1P6tcybQiQ8b_-x9n1wo5R3C2WNxcZC3dcbH_UW-6YgfWq4q

https://www.waxracingproducts.com/products/yamaha-billet-steering-nozzle?srsltid=AfmBOoqz3nh2IbbYJrK105XBngKz-i9I5VTsPj7fD0Mhq32zoszNprdF

oh my bad didnt see that. Will you ship to australia ???

how much ???

Me to. I have a 6mm stroker lamey engine with 48 novis and all the other crazy stuff that a wax build normally has. this is to go int the fx`1. I need the 144 mm pump for it

Did I plug read? Nah, I don’t plug read. Reading plugs properly means pulling them right after a full load pass—not idling back in—and even then, you’ve got to look at the base ring, not the tip. That’s where the real info is. Unleaded fuel doesn’t colour plugs like old-school race gas did...

Mate I fully respect what you write. When you speak I listen

That said, if it’s a recreational ski and not overloaded, you’ll be fine. Two-stroke jet skis don’t usually fail from over-revving — they fail from excessive piston load caused by running too tall a prop. If you err on the side of caution and keep the prop pitch low, the ski becomes more playful...

That’s the real question, isn’t it — when is it just right, and when is it too much? I usually start like you: tune the engine first and let it show where it wants to sit in the RPM range. Let me use a ski I just built for myself as an example — it’s a ported 760 with all the good gear on it...