Keeping fingers crossed on the SC GTX. Intake was full of water.......intake pockets and backside of intake valves had rusty colored foamy goo. After cleaning that out, the valves are shiney with no rusty spots that I can see.....nothing pitted and no scaley rust stuck to anything. Pulled the...
Don't take it all apart yet! Remove the intake grate. Place a small pair of locking pliers on the driveshaft. Stick a dowel rod in the pump to hold the impeller. Carefully rock the driveshaft back and forth with the pliers. See if you can FEEL play in the splines. It will be very minute, but can...
I'm a simpleton.......in the back woods of Arkansas with no way of 3D printing available. Heck, I don't even own a cell phone! Got any drawings or port maps I can print out all old school like..........on paper LOL!!
I checked out the GTX above today. I found somewhat milky oil, and some water in the cylinders. Who even KNOWS how long it's been in there. I went ahead and threw a battery in it not expecting much.......it cranked over fine and shot dirty water out of the cylinders.......hmmm.......well, it's...
The front cap still has a thrust washer setup though not quite as sophisticated as the Mitsuba. And they DO have a needle bearing inside where some of the cheapy knockoffs only have a bushing.
Anyway, they have been a decent option for me as far as new starters go.
Side note for 440/550...
The armature looks just as beefy as the Mitsuba units, but these have a snap ring holding the thrust washers in place where the Mitsuba units have a built in raised boss right on the shaft. You can also see the magnets aren't shielded with a tin sleeve as the Mitsuba units but I don't think that...
I've actually used about 8-10 of these on various customer skis over the last couple years without any issues. I had a need for another one so I opened it up to show you guys the guts.
Most importantly the rear section with 4 brushes. MANY of the cheap knockoffs only have 2 brushes. They work...
BWaaaHaaaaaHaaa.....I've rebuilt a few handfuls of the 800/1200/1300 engines and noticed this completely on my own. I just gouge it up with a pick tool and fill with "Pro-Poxy". I was actually looking for WHERE the oil comes into the bearing and saw this. The reason I was looking is because on...
When I have mine wide open (upper 40's) you constantly have to 'adjust' body positioning to stay on the throttle. You can literally watch the nose hunt back and forth while you're still going straight. I'd love for somebody to get some good footage and just see exactly HOW MUCH of the hull is...
I have also noticed mid 40's is where these things start to "roll". I've learned on mine to keep putting weight on the left as I increase speed. Just don't forget to balance out before letting off the throttle, otherwise the ski 'unwinds' and piches you off the left side!........still puts big...
I understand, the comment was about the mess peeling off. I'm a novice at glass myself but the info, and even instructional videos, is out there to help get it done right!
I revised the title because I dug out the tote and had almost the whole engine in there........just forgot LOL!
I have a good stock Yamaha lower end I was saving for myself but need to sell it to fund a different project. Turns buttery smooth and the rods look great......IT HAS A THREAD INSERT...
Does anybody remember seeing the Yamaha 65u triple exhaust manifolds that were modded by drilling and adding a pipe between the 3 ports? I guess there was probably somebody that figured something out......same type of deal.
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