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The lines from the hull should go into the exhaust manifold, the rear outlet on the head run thst to the port to the chamber, the front outlet overboard. Put a tee on the outlet on the front with the straight end going to the stinger with the flow control valve, the other end overboard.

Post pictures of your setup

It was probably the single best piece of advice I've ever gotten doing glass work.. it also helps hold the laminate down while the curing process of epoxy can cause the laminate to slightly lift.. I noticed several benefits to the peel ply.

I'd also recommend a hooker 10/16 or 9/15 depending on the nozzle diameter. There's a lot more that goes into the pitch than just the number. Blade thickness, weight, hub diameter, blade shape and root angle play a big part into how the impeller will perform. I'm not very familiar with the...

Yeah I've tried that too. It worked OK for me on completely flat surfaces but had issues with it pulling up around slight radiuses. It could have very well been operator error as well haha. But yes biax without the mat is definitely easier to work with but it's still very thick and takes a lot...

I also will sometimes use a tack cloth as well right before applying the resin. Another trick I've learned and have had excellent results with at the end is using a layer of peel ply after I've layed up all of the cloth and applied last coat of resin. Then use a dry 4" roller to help remove...

Biaxial can be used however it's very heavy and soaks up a lot of resin. It's also more difficult to work with for laying on a curved surface. I've had better results and lighter repair that is just as strong with more layers of 6 or 8 oz e or s glass. The total weight of say 4 layers if 6oz e...

I'd pull the engine, tank, and waterbox. Then you can easily lay the hull on its side and work on it. I'd grind out the old repair, fill in the bond line on the inside and add 3 layers of 8oz cloth over the entire area top and bottom to reinforce everything. Once that's done you can grind the...

I've got a sn hull, just the hull. No hood or pole that you can have, also no title. I don't think it's water logged, actually half decent shape to recall. Free come get it. I'm near Charlotte nc

I can make you one out of 303 stainless at work. I made one for my superfreak when I made a custom pole bracket for it because I wanted a pole spring instead of the pinch bolts.

They're (krash) probably hurting the market more than helping it

I completely agree with you that 2 strokes make more power per weight than a 4 stroke ever could. However, those that are in charge of making decisions that affect all of us want to get rid of internal combustion engines all together. I mean even string trimmers now come with 4 stroke engines...

I have a similar setup and run a dedicated line to the headpipe for cooler water to the headpipe. I believe my screw settings are at 1/4 turn out on the top screw and 1/4 turn on the mid screw. On my setup, I have 2 -1/2 od lines from the pump to a manifold with 4- 3/8 outlets. 2 feed the...

I have a feeling that in the next few years, 2 strokes will be all but gone. The epa has been slowly cracking down on 2 strokes over the last few years. And the only ones in jetskis still doing 2 strokes are standups. I believe that market will be gone soon as well. It's completely up to us to...

I've seen people do lots with just a simple non ported 61x with the usual bolt ons in a superjet. My old superjet that was rockered and shortened 4 inches would flip off a boat wake no problem with a basic 61x engine, bpipe, enhancer, head and 9/15 hooker..

I like the adjustable footholds from rrp and a front foothold as well.. you get the benefit of good holds that are adjustable and a wider tray too. Plus the buckets that get glassed in are much easier to pad and turf. The front foothold in the photo is a modified "pancake pete" hold but there...

Pretty interesting that instead adjustable screws for water tuning it has a spray bar right by the coupler. I've seen it done before in a similar spot and have considered doing it to mine

I'd be willing to bet the seller never actually ran the pipe, he got it for resale only. But looking at the chamber, it's definitely a high rpm more race oriented chamber due to the short length.

if you set up your indicator on cylinder 1 for true tdc, put the degree wheel on the pto side of the crank and lined up a tdc mark. then rigged up a pointer to locate the key slot on the snout. . youd need 2 pointers, one for the degree wheel, and the other for the key slot. line up the degree...

I would think a degree wheel would be most accurate