Search results

Yep, the issue made my Freak as heavy as most round noses. It's all good now though. Only gets a few drops in around the rear screws. No big deal.

I'd be more worried about my cooling lines rotting out from salt water, we've already had to cut the tray out of mine because they corroded through. But even with them full of water, I rode them for half a year without issue. They float fine.

Tubbies don't make that big a difference in my humble opinion. Plus in many cases they mean holes in the side of the ski, if done improperly the foam fills with water, and worse case scenario, leak water into your hull.im a big fan of less holes to let water in is better.

Plenty of places have umi rebuild kits, call Jetmaniac, he has everything!

I can tell you that this is really my first year where I have ridden hard, pushing my and my skis limits. It almost feels weird not wrenching all week to fix what I broke the previous weekend, I attribute it to figuring out what I was doing to break stuff (like having my quick turn set up with...

It has taken me 4 years and a whole bunch or trial, error, and $ to get a relatively bomb proof ski. It is the nature of using a jetski outside of what the engineers intended it to do, and the learning curve of figuring out what you can do and what you shouldn't do. I spent more nights wrenching...

Finally got around to posting some fresh pics of my ski for the upcoming year. we spent most of the offseason going through it and repairing cooling tubes which had corroded out and re-seal the air chambers which were cross leaking causing my ski to weigh as much as a stock SJ after an hour of...

No scupper on my Feak for the same reason Matt pointed out, and I get inverted every chance I get! the only scare I ever got was the long exhaust tube coming off after a barrel roll and she started sinking faster than the bilges could keep up with. I have since gotten better with preventative...

I check mine every other ride, but I'm hard on my gear cause I'm not good at landing aerial tricks yet.

You have got to cut the x-metal pad back to the very top (just a little time on the grinder), this is problematic especially with riser bars, mine are 75 mm. or as an alternative, you can drill the hole an inch back of the stock hole which moves the pad farther forward and away from cable...

Robin is a very nice guy! He deserves your business, I was one of his first customers, and have been running his mounts for the last two years, I've had a few failures, but he stands behind his product 100% and warranties everything without question. Each time failures happened, the mounts I...

Ill check when I get home, TBD. Thanks for a starting point!

Any Ideas? Gas isn't the freshest ever, Im trying to burn up some old stuff but it wont start on carb cleaner either? makes really no attempt to start. Motor has run fine this year, it ripped in fact, til now.

I had a similar issue, turned out it was the voltage regulator.

it is the backing plate for a stainless u-bolt. usually they come with 2 plates, I only needed one for a project so I keep extra stuff in case I need to mcguyver something.

mine holes are pretty far forward, cut to just barely fit an inch and 1/8 segmented bilge line they stay put without issue. There is enough room in front to accomodate without issues pretty much wherever you want to put em but farther forward is better, but it depends on what pole you are...

here is a pic of my setup

Yep real cheap too, it's actually a stainless backing plate for a u-bolt bent in half just enough to get a stainless clip in it, stream lined, angled away from the hood, and cheap. A through bolt in the slot for your x-metal adjustment plate and you are set, get a little stainless u-bolt setup...

That is too big I'll take a pic of mine for you tonight, try and keep it as small a profile as possible it can catch your thighs or worse, get ahold of the hood, ask me how I know about both instances!

I have an 11/17 hooker in my freak with a Dasa 850 with setback mag, it hits nice!