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And the answer to the BIG question....DRY,

Ties on the fuel lines and snap in the breather hoses........and I think that about covers it for this build.

More drilling AND more epoxy !!! Just what I want to hear guys, lol ! Only kidding, taken under advisement, just want to ride it for now ! Yeah, running that battery WITH charging system for now Jordan, O2T Zeel and wheel from the 898.

5th and final coat. 48 hours under 130 degree heat lamp. 1000, 2000, 3000, all wet, sanded, 5000 tricut cloth wet sanded. Even got the edges. All on a part you'll never see. Will the ski go higher, faster or farther? NOT AT ALL! Sorry if I offended the nonvisual guys who could care less how...

Coat #4, 24 hours under heat lamp then flat sanded. All the low spots have been filled UP as opposed to the HIGH spots being cut down.

Here's coat #3, after 24hours under 130 degree heat lamp then block sanded. Getting better.

The first coat is going to disappoint, very rumplely, lots of trapped bubbles. Block sand it WITHOUT seeing any gray dust. Gray dust is carbon! We're COATING, NOT CUTTING. Where its shiny, I hit it with the coarsest Scotch brite , maroon, so the next coat of clear will bond. You can't coat and...

Next I cleaned the sanding dust with purple cleaner, any brand. Let dry COMPLETELY ! I actually put it under a heat lamp, not letting it get above 130 degrees.

To clear the ride plate I used 80 grit to remove any wrinkles from the infusion bag, just sanding the wrinkle. We're going for visual here so just enough sanding to take out the sag. You don't want to cut into the pretty fabric pattern.

This is what was left in the bottom of my mixing cup when I did my first test batch of SC110 a couple of years ago. I pulled it from the cup, sanded and polished it, and it rides around in my work truck getting set out in the sun when I'm at jobs. It has not yellowed AT ALL !

Anywhere that's going to see sun light I use, UV resistant SC110.

Behind the bulkhead and inside the hood I used US Composites 2:1 Non Blush laminating resin. Long cure lets most of the bubbles out. But it WILL yellow if exposed to sunlight !

So this is how the plate comes out of the box. Peel ply surface, rough but functional. It's the last uncoated surface on the boat so I figured what the hell, let's clear it. A couple guys have asked me how I clear, so here's how I do it and what I use.

The next posts are purely cosmetic in nature so if visual carbon bothers you skip them.

And I had to shim it 6mm to clear the Velociraptor trim. I made the shims from Damascus carbon, lol. Just kidding, actually used 2 layers of 3.5mm plate and sanded to fit.

Fitting the ride plate. It did require a little notch to clear the shoe.

One thing the Ninja's didn't have were primer fittings and I'm not adding them. I hear all the rage is choke cups, so I'll give them a try. If they don't work, they will be great for storage.

With the carbs jetted fuel lines were next.

And for $5 dollars at WalMart the best 5 bucks I ever spent for dealing with jets. Next to the $5 for the pill case.

Jetting the Ninja SE 50's. Came with 110 MJ , 145 PJ, was given a suggestion of 122.5 MJ and 150 PJ, so I'll start there and have everything around that on hand. Oh yeah, 19 psi pop-off.