Shortening stock pole

[FlightPlanDan]

There are a lot of great threads with a lot of great info here on the X when it comes to shortening the stock pole.

However, the one area I have a problem with is......

What kind of epoxy to use for the "Glass to Metal" bond.

Counting on input from all.

Thanx ahead,

Dan

 

[jetskier0]

I used 5200 on mine. That thing is never coming apart.

 

[Freakrider]

I used 5200 on mine. That thing is never coming apart.

same here I used 5200...it will give some to stress/ shock and still hold the bond...tough stuff ! also option to reinforce by sanding and then several wraps of cloth and polyester resin... holds well... I learned that from Tom21...

 

[FlightPlanDan]

I,ve heard everything from JB weld to Elmers glue to duct tape....No 2-part epoxy?

 

[AtomicPunk]

i used two part epoxy and rivets.. 2 years later it is fine.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

I am a big fan of 5200.
It holds my bilge pump in, it's the only reason my gigging boat doesn't leak etc....
But you've got about 1 inch of glue + rivets with a bunch of stress in a bunch of different directions....
Is a flexible product better?

 

[5810]

epoxy or bolts and nuts spaced 1" apart.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

epoxy or bolts and nuts spaced 1" apart.

I was planning to do both. Epoxy and (not bolts) but SS rivets in the same pattern as stock.
Thought about thru bolts, but I don't want that steering cable wearing out against anything.

 

[orangefinger]

SS rivets , oem metal backing plates still in place nothing else, held up 2 years now..

The important part is to make sure the pole sits really flush on the little lip of the braket , often when pole is cut its not cut straight, then it has some leverage .

If i would do it again I would also use 5200 or epoxy glue as extra stabalizer

 

[kraqus]

I used JB weld and bolts with nylon lock nuts....Solid!


Benny

 

[special fx]

I use epoxy and grind both the glass and the aluminum well before bonding, then S/S rivets.

I also shorten my pole from the top instead of the bottom, It seems most cut the bottom and it totally hoses up the way the pole fits the hood line. If you think about what plane the pole is on when riding, I think you may even realize more benefit from cutting top vs bottom?? I also beef it up with either a glass wrap or aluminum plates just to keep it from breaking loose. With only a 1" interference fit, sooner or later it will start working loose no matter what you use to bond it.

 

[Sanoman]

l shortended a buddy of mine's 1st of last season.l used this thread to do his Dan: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/17612

l have some Fuzor 116 left over from my build.lt is a cross bonding 2 part epoxy.l need to do something with it before it drys up.You are welcome to it!

 

[accbr]

I've done 3 now. Used two part epoxy on two of them, and JB weld on the other one. I also used bolts on all three. Never had a problem with any of them. Put it on your ski to make sure it's straight before it dries. Just mock it up without a spring, and make sure it sits in the hood channel.

 

[Crab]

Did epoxy and ss rivets, added one layer of 8.5oz over the pole also and wrapped onto the base, then over extended it on a flatwater stab and blew out the base but the joint didn't budge.

 

[FlightPlanDan]

Thanks for all the input!
Cutting it today. (-2)