best place for winter restrictors to be placed without effecting b pipe settings?

What is the best way to place restrictors for a dual cooling setup in winter to not mess with your pressure to the head pipe and change your other 3 season bpipe head pipe settings? Ive noticed pretty big differences in low end performance with holding water in the motor and pipe longer to warm it up for winter. It does regulate water temp going into the pipe so the pipe temp does remain some what sim,but it increases pressure to the head pipe and changes the tunable settings of the pipe. I dont want to have to mess with the bpipe screws,I have them perfect for the other 3 seasons....whats the best compromise solution?
 

Sospikey

Trying to get upside down
Location
Sweden
I asked Chucky about this when I got my Baby Scream package. He suggested to put the restrictors on the feed lines by the manifold.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
I would think you would want to restrict before your water goes in too your head, I'm running dual cooling one line does the pipe and the other the head, I've got a mini throttling valve on the inlet too the pipe so my b-pipe screws never have too change I just cut the amount of water running in too the pipe, only tried it last year and it worked, I'm going too add one on the head side as well this year
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Run them right before your water bypass fittings that way the system stays pressurized even if they get clogged with debris and they're easily accessible.

I use 3/8-inch nylon rod cut in one inch lengths with various size holes drilled through the center of each restrictor plug and install them directly inside the hose.
 
Location
PA
Use separate cooling lines.
One for the exhaust.
One for the engine.
Put restrictors on the fittings coming out of the head and adjust the flow to keep both cylinder temperatures even.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Run them right before your water bypass fittings that way the system stays pressurized even if they get clogged with debris and they're easily accessible.

I use 3/8-inch nylon rod cut in one inch lengths with various size holes drilled through the center of each restrictor plug and install them directly inside the hose.

Why wouldn't you use a valve once you set mine, it's got a 12mm nut too lock inplace much easier to change whenthe water temp changed?
 
Run them right before your water bypass fittings that way the system stays pressurized even if they get clogged with debris and they're easily accessible.

I use 3/8-inch nylon rod cut in one inch lengths with various size holes drilled through the center of each restrictor plug and install them directly inside the hose.

Thats the way to do it. In order to keep your current specs for your headpipe, you want full pressure coming into your headpipe. Depending on how you have your cooling plumbed, you'll want to restrict the water after it leaves the headpipe on that circuit, and after the head on the other circuit. If you put it before, your completely changing the amount of water pressure going through the pipe, which is changing the amount of water flowing through your water injection holes. Seems like lowering the pressure before your headpipe would cause less water to flow into the headpipe/chamber. All you really want to do is limit the amount of water being dumped overboard, so do it where it doesn't affect the cooling setup of your engine.
 
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munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Drilling holes in nylon is the same as using a valve, all your doing is reducing the inside diameter of your cooling line, if your really want put a jennitcs valve by your pisser to maintain your water pressure, please correct me if I'm way off base, I work with this kinda stuff for a living but on a much bigger scale and it makes sence too me, the valve restricts the flow, and pressure is maintained at the pisser or the jetnetics valve at the end
 
the thing is even with adding restrictors to just before the pissors,your increasing the pressure throughout the system,especially with large pump fitting dual cooling. like when you have a hole in your garden hose and close the nozzle off at the end the pressure in the hole sprays 10x more through the same size hole.
Im thinking of running a dedicated line to head pipe and one to the mani for cylinder,then only restricting the motor over board,the ? is what is more important,maintaining the same pipe temp for power or the same amount of water flow from a givin pipe screw to keep things most consistent season to season
 

Dustin Mustangs

uʍop ǝpıs dn
Location
Holland, MI
There is no way to do what you want. To maintain the same temp in colder water you have to limit flow. To do this you either have to lower the pressure (restrict before pipe) or raise the pressure (restrict after the pipe). If you run a dedicated line for the pipe and don't restrict it, the flow and pressure stay the same but now your water temp is different and that will effect pipe tuning as well (but maybe not as much?). Any way you look at it you are going to have to tweek your screws to get the same hit.
 
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im just looking at as the best compromise for the winter with out having to mess with the screws for winter,I ride way more the other 3 seasons.whats making the larger diff,the water temp in the pipe or the water flow from a givin screw in the pipe is the main ? here I suppose.... but with this route you only have to pop out one restric,or use a valve just before the pisser,as i have tried that also.
 
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