factory wet pipe

[camojoe157]

I just bought a used factory wet pipe in great condition and I was cleaning it last night and I now have a couple questions.

A) How do I route the water lines??

B) On the water line out on the bottom of the pipe I noticed there is a jet screwed into it.. It says 175 but maybe I can't read it right and its 125???Any help on what do put in it???

C) Also how should I set the scres on the headpipe. I use this ski for freeriding but next year will be racing it??

thanks

Joe

 

[jrslim84]

take the jet out and get a flow control valve and close the top screw and 1/4 turn the two bottom ones and ride it a couple mins and check temp and adjust should be able to touch but not hold- the water in manafold then the water out head to head pipe bottom and the other head out to stinger and pisser and the head pipe top out another pisser -2 pissers total

 

[camojoe157]

thankss.. any other suggestions..

 

[sxr rrp]

heres a decent pic of the water lines

 

[jrslim84]

heres a decent pic of the water lines

that is not right so the water comes in the head pipe to the top of the head then to pisser then to manafold the manafold gets the hotest it should get the water first the cyl then head pipe then stinger

 

[rollin5150]

I just bought a used factory wet pipe in great condition and I was cleaning it last night and I now have a couple questions.

A) How do I route the water lines??

B) On the water line out on the bottom of the pipe I noticed there is a jet screwed into it.. It says 175 but maybe I can't read it right and its 125???Any help on what do put in it???

C) Also how should I set the scres on the headpipe. I use this ski for freeriding but next year will be racing it??

thanks

Joe

A) Here is how my water lines are routed for single line cooling. Water comes into the exhaust manifold. From the two fitting on top the head, one goes to the top of the headpipe, and the other fitting goes overboard. The line from the bottom of the headpipe T's off. One goes overboard, the other goes to the stinger. I left the jet in mine and run the jetworks valve right before the stinger.

B) Leave this jet in for it helps keep the waterbox from loading up especially if you don't run a jetworks valve.

C) You will want to set the screws to a rough estimate before installing the headpipe. The top screw will controll your bottom end hit and the bottom screw will controll your top end. Most run the middle closed. If you are going to race with this pipe, you will want to run this pipe as hot as possible. Most likely you will be running with top and middle closed and bottom open about 1/4 turn. You will just need to play with them to tune it to your ski's mods and personal feel.

http://www.factorypipe.com/media/instructions/kawasaki/800SXwetpipe.pdf

 

[sxr rrp]

If the picture I posted is wrong please let me know. I had a local shop install the pipe. I already hate them after the first experience with them. I would love to have a good reason to get more pissed at them. lol

 

[rollin5150]

If the picture I posted is wrong please let me know. I had a local shop install the pipe. I already hate them after the first experience with them. I would love to have a good reason to get more pissed at them. lol

Yours is fine. Personally I think that it really does not matter on where the water enters the headpipe (top or bottom). I used to have mine routed your way (water to bottom input and exit the top) and then switch it to see if there was a change. I felt no real performace difference at all.

One thing that you may want to do is block off the overboard that goes into your pump area. If you get a clog, you will not see the pisser stop streaming water and could melt down some stuff. This happened to a budy of mine. Just install another fitting next to the current or factory overboard on the port side of the boat.

 

[sxr rrp]

ok cool, thanks for the info

 

[X2Pilot]

Yes that is fine, either top or bottom is ok but I bottom feed my pipe because the only screw I have open is the bottom one, and you want the coldest water injected. So that is the closest to the injection point. One suggestion is that you take the stock rear head water fitting and change it for a true 3/8 fitting (1/8" npy X 3/8" hose barb) and drill it out as large as possible (about 1/4") so that the cylinder stays cooler. Also, you said you bought the pipe used, so you didnt get the replacement fitting for the pump? The stock fitting is too small and must be changed to a 1/4" NPT X 1/2" hose barb. The pump is tapped for this size already but the stock fitting is very smal i.d.
These things will help your engine run cooler but allow the pipe to heat up so you can get the peak rpms up. As said before, the hotter the better, but there is a fine line betwen peak performance and melting foam, ex hoses etc.
Last thing I suggest is that you wrap the waterbox in a layer of HydroTurf to keep the foam from melting down under the waterbox. It will not prevent it but it will slow its eventual breakdown/melting.

 

[rollin5150]

Yes that is fine, either top or bottom is ok but I bottom feed my pipe because the only screw I have open is the bottom one, and you want the coldest water injected. So that is the closest to the injection point. One suggestion is that you take the stock rear head water fitting and change it for a true 3/8 fitting (1/8" npy X 3/8" hose barb) and drill it out as large as possible (about 1/4") so that the cylinder stays cooler. Also, you said you bought the pipe used, so you didnt get the replacement fitting for the pump? The stock fitting is too small and must be changed to a 1/4" NPT X 1/2" hose barb. The pump is tapped for this size already but the stock fitting is very smal i.d.
These things will help your engine run cooler but allow the pipe to heat up so you can get the peak rpms up. As said before, the hotter the better, but there is a fine line betwen peak performance and melting foam, ex hoses etc.
Last thing I suggest is that you wrap the waterbox in a layer of HydroTurf to keep the foam from melting down under the waterbox. It will not prevent it but it will slow its eventual breakdown/melting.

All good points!! I have melted my foam to nothing :17:.

 

[djkorn1]

My foam is going on 5 years and is fine! ancake:

 

[camojoe157]

Yes that is fine, either top or bottom is ok but I bottom feed my pipe because the only screw I have open is the bottom one, and you want the coldest water injected. So that is the closest to the injection point. One suggestion is that you take the stock rear head water fitting and change it for a true 3/8 fitting (1/8" npy X 3/8" hose barb) and drill it out as large as possible (about 1/4") so that the cylinder stays cooler. Also, you said you bought the pipe used, so you didnt get the replacement fitting for the pump? The stock fitting is too small and must be changed to a 1/4" NPT X 1/2" hose barb. The pump is tapped for this size already but the stock fitting is very smal i.d.
These things will help your engine run cooler but allow the pipe to heat up so you can get the peak rpms up. As said before, the hotter the better, but there is a fine line betwen peak performance and melting foam, ex hoses etc.
Last thing I suggest is that you wrap the waterbox in a layer of HydroTurf to keep the foam from melting down under the waterbox. It will not prevent it but it will slow its eventual breakdown/melting.

I am a little confused about the part for the pump. I did buy it used and did not get any replacement fitting for the pump. What fitting are you talking about????

thanks

 

[rollin5150]

The fitting that mounts the incoming waterline to the pump is larger than stock.

From the installation manual

http://www.factorypipe.com/media/instructions/kawasaki/800SXwetpipe.pdf

Remove the ride plate. Disconnect the 3/8” hose from the 90-degree, water-in fitting on the right side of the pump. Install the ¼” NPT x 1/2” 90 degree fitting (item #13). Reinstall the 3/8” water-in line and secure the hose clamp. Reinstall the ride plate.

 

[rollin5150]

My foam is going on 5 years and is fine! ancake:

You run more water in your pipe than we do.

 

[X2Pilot]

I am a little confused about the part for the pump. I did buy it used and did not get any replacement fitting for the pump. What fitting are you talking about????

thanks

The fitting that the pressure line is connected to, coming off of the pump in the stator section.
This is an example of the fitting:

 

[camojoe157]

thanks guys...i got it now..

 

[Scorn800]

Yes that is fine, either top or bottom is ok but I bottom feed my pipe because the only screw I have open is the bottom one, and you want the coldest water injected. So that is the closest to the injection point. One suggestion is that you take the stock rear head water fitting and change it for a true 3/8 fitting (1/8" npy X 3/8" hose barb) and drill it out as large as possible (about 1/4") so that the cylinder stays cooler. Also, you said you bought the pipe used, so you didnt get the replacement fitting for the pump? The stock fitting is too small and must be changed to a 1/4" NPT X 1/2" hose barb. The pump is tapped for this size already but the stock fitting is very smal i.d.
These things will help your engine run cooler but allow the pipe to heat up so you can get the peak rpms up. As said before, the hotter the better, but there is a fine line betwen peak performance and melting foam, ex hoses etc.
Last thing I suggest is that you wrap the waterbox in a layer of HydroTurf to keep the foam from melting down under the waterbox. It will not prevent it but it will slow its eventual breakdown/melting.

I agree with everything Johnny said.
I also run my water from bottom to top and Yes. I've melt my water box foam by drying the pipe out too much. The wet pipe can really rip if set up right!:Banane35:

 

[djkorn1]

You run more water in your pipe than we do.

Probably...I should try to dry it out and see what happens...

 

[rollin5150]

Probably...I should try to dry it out and see what happens...

If you have two others closed and one that is under 1/4 turn open, you will be heating up your waterbox pretty good. As Jon stated earlier, he is about 1/8 turn open and his gets HOT. I run with bottom 1/4 turn open and maybe the top 1/8 turn open. This keeps the pipe hot but not to hot to melt foam. I melted my foam with top closed, mid closed, and bottom 1/8 turn open.