This one is for you DASA - Lamey

I've been talking to Kyle and Bryan at DASA about the allen bolts they send with the billet cylinders. I understand why they had to chose that type of bolt. The billet cylinder is so HUGE than a normal bolt would not have room for the socket to fit to tighten it up.

However the allen head suffers a major flaw: It's not available in stainless anywhere on this planet and it fills with water and gets rusty FAST. I have about 8 hours max of fresh water riding on this rusty bolt.

I was ordering L19 head studs for our MR2's and happened to find these SWEET bolts from ARP. The head is turned down and fits a 12 point 12mm socket to tool clearance in great. And it's POLISHED stainless steel so it looks great. Plu it's from ARP so you know it's good quality (unlike some of the crap stainless you get at the hardware store).

ARP part number is 773-1010

They are available in packs of 5 for about $7.00 each from JEGS or Summit Racing. Not cheap, but totally worth it on a $2800 cylinder.

Um, please ignore all the water spots on my cylinder ;)

Aaron
 

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tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
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Location
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they have ss allen head metric M10x1.25 bolts in bins here at work
I dont know where they get them
but they DO exist!
 
WDK uses those ARP bolts for their cylinders. They just didn't leave enough clearance to the walls, have to turn down a tube socket to get in there, the socket tends to crack near the tip with the reduced meat.
Give me a torx or allen-head bolt anyday
 
Last edited:

waterfreak

I had a vision!
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s florida
I've been talking to Kyle and Bryan at DASA about the allen bolts they send with the billet cylinders. I understand why they had to chose that type of bolt. The billet cylinder is so HUGE than a normal bolt would not have room for the socket to fit to tighten it up.

However the allen head suffers a major flaw: It's not available in stainless anywhere on this planet and it fills with water and gets rusty FAST. I have about 8 hours max of fresh water riding on this rusty bolt.

I was ordering L19 head studs for our MR2's and happened to find these SWEET bolts from ARP. The head is turned down and fits a 12 point 12mm socket to tool clearance in great. And it's POLISHED stainless steel so it looks great. Plu it's from ARP so you know it's good quality (unlike some of the crap stainless you get at the hardware store).

ARP part number is 773-1010

They are available in packs of 5 for about $7.00 each from JEGS or Summit Racing. Not cheap, but totally worth it on a $2800 cylinder.

Um, please ignore all the water spots on my cylinder ;)

Aaron
those look similar to the SS bolts the sea doo DI uses. I just took one apart (DI) and stripped and broke almost all the head bolts except for 2.
Bottom line is that corrosions kills everything...it just takes a little longer with SS. Besides, I think that Yamaha uses some kind of plating also on their bolts that prevenst corrions very well .
just maintain and use grease on all your hardware and you should be fine.
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
I wish....

Annodizing has it's own problems for our final application.

When we heat the cylinder to install the sleeves, the anno will turn a different color and will not match the color of a similar unheated anno, say if we did the head.

Worse, it can't be anno'ed afterwords with the sleeves installed.

Brian

the reason your cylinder looks like that is because it is bare aluminum as well you should get it anodized as well since it is 2800
 
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QuickMick

API 1104 AWS CWI
Site Supporter
Annodizing has it's own problems for our final application.

When we heat the cylinder to install the sleeves, the anno will turn a different color and will not match the color of a similar unheated anno, say if we did the head.

Worse, it can't be anno'ed afterwords with the sleeves installed.

Brian

Some kinda clear coating maybe to help keep down corrosion?
 
Brian - I didn't mean for my water spots to become a problem....but what can I do about it? I think I can get them off with some car Quick Detailer type stuff. But would an Armor All or silicone product help to keep the spots off?

Haha, just the fact that I worried about water spots and shiny bolts should tell you that 99% of the big problems with this engine/ski are SOLVED. I am way overski-ed and underskilled. I love it. Haha.

Aaron
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
Yea, ha ha, see what you started.

I am glad to hear you got it ironed out. Now get a thread going about how it rides.

Brian

Brian - I didn't mean for my water spots to become a problem....but what can I do about it? I think I can get them off with some car Quick Detailer type stuff. But would an Armor All or silicone product help to keep the spots off?

Haha, just the fact that I worried about water spots and shiny bolts should tell you that 99% of the big problems with this engine/ski are SOLVED. I am way overski-ed and underskilled. I love it. Haha.

Aaron
 
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