Bilge control options

[2strokeforever]

Curious how everyone controls when their bilge is running?

I ended up making a full electronic controller that runs for 20 seconds with a momentary push of a kill switch button on the bars.
It works pretty good, but I am curious about automatic options.
I can't see a float and switch being great, but are there any sensors without moving parts or switches that are proven?

 

[Mobile Chernobyl]

I just leave mine run continuously - With the goal of turning it off whenever I take a beach break from riding.

And if someone happens to run into me, causing a football sized hole in the lower deck of my ski and I begin taking on water rapidly like the titanic - I intentionally use an alternate operation (toggle) switch so the bilge will continue to run even if I get thrown over the bars during said collision, ripping my lanyard out and killing the engine temporarily until I can swim back to the ski.

Never had a dead battery, and never killed a bilge pump this way. I replace the pump cartridge (Tsunami2 500GPH) every 2 years proactively.

It's important to consider riding style too - if you're flipping 20 yards from the dock, racing or exploring - you might have different requirements for running the bilge. The group I ride with often does big lake rides - burning 2 to 3 tanks of gas in a day covering 100 miles or so while ripping coast line curves - and the pump has not yet outpaced my charging system in as many hours.

In an ideal world I'd have some sort of "smart" bilge controller with the following conditions:

• Bilge pump automatically turns on when engine is running - regardless of handlebar switch input
• If handlebar switch is on, bilge will keep running as long as it's on

That way I never forget to turn the bilge on while riding.

 

[eastbay]

I run the rotary switch in the blowsion round billet part. I also used the Wax racing wiring harness that plugs into your start/stop harness so nothing going to the battery!

 

[Big Kahuna]

Curious how everyone controls when their bilge is running?

I ended up making a full electronic controller that runs for 20 seconds with a momentary push of a kill switch button on the bars.
It works pretty good, but I am curious about automatic options.
I can't see a float and switch being great, but are there any sensors without moving parts or switches that are proven?

That is interesting. Details?

 

[SteveC]

What I do: install a fuse under hood when I leave the shore which turns on continuous bilge. If I stop for a long time, pop open fuse holder.

What you could do: skip the water level sensor and have controller kick the bilge on every 120 seconds for 45 seconds.

What I have thought about doing: use an automotive relay (sealed, waterproof) with the low power activation coil connected to the charging output from engine, and high power side powering bilge. I don't think the charging output could be used directly (AC waveform), but you get the idea.

What would be cool: Bilge kicks on every 60 seconds for 10 seconds. If bilge current draw is "high", indicating load, keep bilge on til current drops to normal. All this only powered when engine is running.

Final thought: a waterproof low-current switch can be used to toggle an automotive relay, which in turn handles the bilge power. That way the switch doesn't need to support 10A or whatever dual 500G bilge setups draw.

 

[kevbo]

If you need an electric pump a lot just leave it on while you ride. They draw very little when not pumping water.

 

[BennyB]

The intermittent bilge idea seems good... But my Krash came set up that way and I found it to be quite annoying and not as effective as just leaving it running. If I would have kept that ski any longer that was next on my list of things to do, wire it with an on/off switch.

Like @Mobile Chernobyl said, never any issues that way. I have all of my skis set up on either a handlebar switch or dash mount rotary switch in a blowsion dash fitting. Turn it on when you go out and ride, turn it off when you get back. I have 4 rule 500 pumps between 4 skis with the oldest being in my superjet for 7 years now and still going strong.

 

[2strokeforever]

That is interesting. Details?

It's a newer smaller version of this, and epoxy potted.
It has mosfet instead of a relay so it will last forever.
It's also really easy to program to do pretty much whatever you want it to.

It also has short circuit protection for both the pump and the handlebar button.

 

[Diametunim]

On my SuperJet I run the Hot Products Bilge Switch (I believe JetManiac sells these too) which mounts to the underside of the start / stop switch. In my EBox I've got an OCD Solutions dual bilge harness which runs to two 500GPH Rule bilges. For mounting I'm using the Blowsion Dual Bilge Bracket which I find much cleaner than epoxying the bilge strainer to the hull directly.

My brother on his Rickter XFR has a pretty slick automated setup. He's running 2 800GPH Rule Bilges wired to an OCD Solutions Dual Bilge harness and for "switching" he's wired in a solid state automatic float switch which will kick on/off based on the water level in the hull. He epoxied the float switch into his hull with semi permanent epoxy. I plan to run this same setup on the Rickter I'm building.

JetManiac has all of your bilge needs.

For what it's worth it looks like the reviews for the solid state switch I linked are not great. I'm not sure if SeaFlo's quality has taken a nosedive in the past couple of years but my brother has never had an issue with his switch.

 

[Storbeck]

There are pretty simple water sensors that basically have exposed electrodes at low voltage and detect the slight continuity caused by the presence of water. Wouldn't be difficult to make a controller with one of those.

If you search something like "Arduino water sensor" you'll find them.

But.... It's pretty easy to just leave the thing running and a lot less to go wrong that way.

 

[Pro-pulsion]

I've been running a Water Witch electronic bilge switch with a manual switch in case the witch gives up but it has been 6 years now and it still works like new.

Model 217 Bilge Switch - Water Witch Inc.

12 VdcSupports up to 10 Amps7 Year Limited Warranty2⅝”W x 1⅝”H x 1⅝”DDelay on 6-8 SecondsDelay off 14-16 Seconds

waterwitchinc.com

 

[joeschuit]

I swapped my yamaha start/stop switch to a polaris slt one that has an extra momentary button built in. Easy to take apart and clean the contacts if necessary and is oem quality. Will have to lengthen all the wires accordingly. I swapped to deutch connectors at the same time. I also modeled and printed a lever lock to keep it always on if necessary.

 

[Myself]

I've been running a Water Witch electronic bilge switch with a manual switch in case the witch gives up but it has been 6 years now and it still works like new.

Model 217 Bilge Switch - Water Witch Inc.

12 VdcSupports up to 10 Amps7 Year Limited Warranty2⅝”W x 1⅝”H x 1⅝”DDelay on 6-8 SecondsDelay off 14-16 Seconds

waterwitchinc.com

THAT......looks like a nice option!

 

[Pro-pulsion]

THAT......looks like a nice option!

It's small too. I have it tie strapped I think to my bilge bracket right beside the pump, water goes in, 5 seconds wait time for the switch to trigger, water goes out. It has been far more reliable than any electronic bilge switch I have used yet. Even the Rule pumps with the switch built in can't compare. I had a new battery completely fail on a first run once, it had zero cca but it still had voltage...that switch kept my ski afloat while I swam it back to shore in a lot of chop. That was about 4 years ago and it still keeps working. The only thing I do that I only just started doing about a year or 2 ago was pulling the fuse out of the inline holder at the battery for it when I'm done the ride because the switch does stay in constant monitor mode which will drain the battery. Other than that, I've never needed the manual switch. I've gone through 2 pumps and half a dozen manual switches to this same electronic switch that keeps going. The manual switches are only because I keep buying non-waterproof flat toggle switches so they eventually rust inside and crap the bed so to speak lol

 

[Diametunim]

I've been running a Water Witch electronic bilge switch with a manual switch in case the witch gives up but it has been 6 years now and it still works like new.

Model 217 Bilge Switch - Water Witch Inc.

12 VdcSupports up to 10 Amps7 Year Limited Warranty2⅝”W x 1⅝”H x 1⅝”DDelay on 6-8 SecondsDelay off 14-16 Seconds

waterwitchinc.com

Yeah to hell with the solid state float switch I recommended. This thing is slick.

 

[bored&stroked]

Manual switch that bolts to the bottem of the start/stop switch. Its simple, smooth, and works. Turn it on when I play. Turn it off when I cruise or stop. Never replaced a rule in almost 20yrs.