Removing oem paint from YAM motor

Do U guys know how can I remove the OEM paint on YAM cyl and cases??

I know how to do it but I dont know if it will be in an usable unpainted condition like the new YAM motors.

Have U tried?

Tks

Gera
 

adet16v

No like winter
I have stripped some oem kawasaki paint off of some motors. I picked up an aerosol can at Lowes. It was a gold can with white cap. I believe the brand name was jasco or something like that. I dont have it anymore I think I used it all up but it worked AMAZING. I also used it on the handlepole cowling for a 550, mariner head, riva ride plate... the paint would just curl up and peel off. Dont get it on your hands though OUCH
 

njfl

X-H2
I think that a lot of the years used a powder coat and likely epoxy-based. I have found that bead blasting often bounces off that. A chemical paint remover works nicely when epoxy powder coating is used.
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
bead blast with 36 grit aluminum oxide, 90PSI. Just did my entire motor (in pieces, of course). Then used 60 grit glass beads to polish it up.
 
Hummm.

What U mean by bead blaster is similar to sand blast or glass blast???
We dont have in my local area those thin blast stuff...

BK, if I "bead or glass blast" it will look like the new motors?

Gera
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
I will post some pics when I get home so you can see what it looks like.

Beadblast/sandblast - same thing, same equipment. If you blast with al. oxide to remove paint/corrosion, then blast with glass beads, it will make the aluminum look like freshly cast with a satin appearance, just like brand new.

What blasting and clearing won't do is hide defects, scratches, etc in the casting that a couple coats of paint would hide.
 

The other Alex

(Jetdude)
Location
Lake St. Clair--
I know this thread is old(er), but...
If you bead blast a motor or use a chemical to strip the paint, do you need to disassemble the motor or can you do it when its all together so as not to need all new gaskets...?
 

michael950

for me to POOP on!
Location
Houston, TX
Also, is bead blast and sand blast the same thing?

I thought bead blasting was like using plastic like beads, and sand uses... well... sand.

The reason for using beads is because it is less abrasive on more delicate surfaces. But if all this time I have been reading bead blast and people interchange it with sand blast, then I might have been incorrect in my interpretations.



Other Alex, I think disassembled is safest but with meticulous care it could be done assembled. :dunno:
 

The other Alex

(Jetdude)
Location
Lake St. Clair--
I dont want to spend another eighty bucks and a few hours disassembling my whole motor just because I dont like the paint on it, that's why I am wondering. If I used a stripping chemical I wonder if it would leak onto and exposed gasket and eat through it or something...
 

Waste Land

Non Multa Sed Multum
Location
Florence, AL
I dont want to spend another eighty bucks and a few hours disassembling my whole motor just because I dont like the paint on it, that's why I am wondering. If I used a stripping chemical I wonder if it would leak onto and exposed gasket and eat through it or something...

Do it right or dont do it
 

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
I use a five gallon bucket of carb parts cleaning solution and let it soak for a day or two.

They come out looking like brand new unless they have salt water corrosion on them.

I also mask the machine surface off and hit them with a bead blaster if they have excessive corrosion.
 

WAB

salty nuts
Location
coastal GA
I taped off the intake and exhaust with duct tape and blasted mine clean while it was together. Don't use sand, it will damage the alum.

 
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WAB

salty nuts
Location
coastal GA
I blasted off all the old OEM paint and corrosion off with Colloidal Silica, I think that's what it was (some stuff my friend had-cheaper than glass beads and not damage the alum)

Then primed it with Zinc oxide primer-to help prevent corrosion and it's self etching so the color coat sticks really well w/o sanding. Then sprayed the color coats on.

I did this about 2 years ago and it has held up great. I did not blast & prime the flywheel cover and head, only scuffed it up with a 3m scuff pad & those parts have chipped and worn much worse.

Here's a pic of it in the zinc oxide primer-before painting the color coat


Hope this helps
 
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