Removing oem paint from YAM motor

WAB

salty nuts
Location
coastal GA
Well you don't blast the tape, you blast the paint. :biggrin: The stuff I blasted with is only just tough enough to take off the paint.
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
So you had the motor assembled when you blasted it? (minus the manifolds)
I would have though that if you blasted it with anything it would rip right through the tape.

Hey Alex,
I really wouldn't do it with the motor assembled. The media gets everywhere. If you don't want to disassemble it, clean it real good (warm water and dawn), degrease with MEK or other solvent, scuff generously with a gray scotchbrite pad, degrease again, toss a couple coats of rattle can paint on it, then put a coat of diamond clear (or a ceramic hi temp clear sold at autuparts stores) in a rattle can. It will last a season or 2 in fresh water use. Then when you are ready to do a teardown you can do it right. Also prepare to chase all the threads after blasting, and some 600 grit paper on glass works great for perfecting gasket surfaces.

-joe
 
I will post some pics when I get home so you can see what it looks like.

Beadblast/sandblast - same thing, same equipment. If you blast with al. oxide to remove paint/corrosion, then blast with glass beads, it will make the aluminum look like freshly cast with a satin appearance, just like brand new.

What blasting and clearing won't do is hide defects, scratches, etc in the casting that a couple coats of paint would hide.

GOT IT.

Finally I found locally what some of U adviced me.

It is not SANDBLAST.... I did it before and it attack too much the surface...

I am not sure if beadblast is what I found... they claim it is "MICRO GLASS BALLS" (translating the words).

The result: A perfect surface just like the new OEM Yam's.

It was a brand new case and cyl but I was impressive anyway. PERFECT.

I will post pics.

Gera
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
Pics of mine, microbead blasted, cleaned up meticulously, then automotive clearcoat.

Pipe has jet-hot coating, which I bead blasted to give it a satin finish instead of gloss. Don't consider their copper coating, they tried it 3 times and never got it to adhere. Kept chipping off during shipping. :frown:
 

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Pics of mine, microbead blasted, cleaned up meticulously, then automotive clearcoat.

Pipe has jet-hot coating, which I bead blasted to give it a satin finish instead of gloss. Don't consider their copper coating, they tried it 3 times and never got it to adhere. Kept chipping off during shipping. :frown:

That's just like mine.

I just sent a NIB ADA head to be blue anodized, blue Tau ceti's, blue oil pump block off, blue ADA throttle wheel and just forgot to send a NIB RIVA RED spacer to be blue anodized as well. Actually I do not really use spacer on my motors.

I will post pics when have it all assembled.

MICRO GLASS BALLS ou MICROBEAD (as U say) is the way to go. Forget about sandblast.

Gera
 

just joe

Site Supporter
Location
NorCal
just sent a NIB ADA head to be blue anodized, blue Tau ceti's, blue oil pump block off, blue ADA throttle wheel and just forgot to send a NIB RIVA RED spacer to be blue anodized as well. Actually I do not really use spacer on my motors.

Who do you use for anodizing? I had a local shop do stuff in the past, but they closed down.

Thanks
-Joe
 
Got my ADA from anodizing....

Looks very good.... I just sent a Tauceti to match the color and they got it.

Gera
 

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