Carb rebuild dual mikuni sbn38

[trotty]

 

[trotty]

Zoomed out pic

 

[yamanube]

Looks like you don't have the tamper caps, oddly enough your carbs don't even have the casting needed to install the caps.

Here is a '13 that I recently worked on with the cap removed.

 

[trotty]

That's strange then, wonder why that is then.

 

[yamanube]

Very strange, I wonder if its a euro thing? Either way, its better for you, those caps are a pain and the screws under them suck to adjust, you lucked out.

Did you purchase this ski brand new?

 

[trotty]

Yep it's a 2011, man jetmaniac is gonna be pissed, I just ordered a primer and the the t handles from him thinking it must be the same.

 

[Vumad]

Yep it's a 2011, man jetmaniac is gonna be pissed, I just ordered a primer and the the t handles from him thinking it must be the same.

Tell your wife that you feel bad about the transaction, and you want to apologize by supporting his business, so you absolutely have to buy more stuff for your superjet. It's solid logic.

 

[trotty]

Lol too true!!

 

[Raddog]

you can't use the t handles with your carb setup?
Cheers Ray

 

[trotty]

I think it's the same in the respect to the high and low screws, it just doesn't have the outside casing that the tamper proof caps were put on.

 

[trotty]

 

[trotty]

Everything's out. Just waiting on some gaskets and bolts from the jetman, and I can then put this b pipe in that's been in my room for a year!!!

 

[yamanube]

Remember to either shorten or add a washer to the two upper center exhaust screws that hold the manifold to the cylinder. Do yourself a favor and get a cheapo 12mm spanner that you can grind to piss to access those as well.

 

[yamanube]

Grind the front corner off your exhaust side bedplate too.

 

[Vumad]

Remember to either shorten or add a washer to the two upper center exhaust screws that hold the manifold to the cylinder. Do yourself a favor and get a cheapo 12mm spanner that you can grind to piss to access those as well.

View attachment 258330

My superjet came with a tool kit that included a stamped wrench. Still took a little grinding.

 

[trotty]

Yamalube, cheers for that advice buddy!! I placed the manifold on there and thought how the hell r u ment to get the bolts in!!

 

[trotty]

I read somewhere that you can place some shims under the waterbox to allow clearance of the engine cradle, might give that a go before going the grinding route. The general consensus is that the ltd Chamber is a pia to install. Is there any more tips before I attempt to install this badboy!!!

 

[yamanube]

Just grind it, you will be bummed when you have a hole in the bottom of your new pipe. You want the chamber and the headpipe opening to be parallel to each other, that will determine where the end of your pipe sits, shimming your waterbox up and pushing the pipe out of alignment could cause premature coupler failure. Take a couple pieces of turf (or some sort of foam) and wedge them into the front waterbox strap hooks (with the straps installed) this will keep the straps from falling off the hooks, then when you go to install the pipe you can undo the front of the straps and move your waterbox around as needed to get the chamber in there (makes things a little easier). I sometimes remove the battery box too, it makes getting the gas tank in a little easier. Some WD40 or really anything slippery sprayed on the exhaust hose will also make getting the gas tank in easier as you have to kind of shoe-horn it in there once the chamber is installed.

 

[trotty]

Yea that's very true about the grinding. In regards to the tank I'm thinking of getting a cf one anyhow which I think is supposed to fit a little better, not that I'm thinking of getting it for that reson alone.

 

[yamanube]

Besides looks, Im not sure there is much advantage to switching to the CF tank.