Want to add Ada Non Girdled Head and Zero Flywheel, is 91 safe?

[bird]

I currently have one mod done to my stock engine, the temp sensor jump. That puts my SXR at a 6 degree advance.

I want to keep my boat running 91 octane (available all over Wisconsin) and not have to do any carb tweaks to boot!

So will adding a non girdled Ada head rated at 180psi/91 octane and Zero Flywheel(drilled) be totally safe on 91 gas?

I'm going non girdled because I don't plan on pusihng the psi past 180-190. I plan on riding some Lake Michigan surf and making a trip to Daytona this Jan, so let me know if you would always go "girdled".

thanks dudes!

 

[Roseand]

Do you run a lot of wot?

 

[bird]

I would say no. I'm pretty conscious about that. I tend to just slalom and chase waves. When I go long distances I try to stay in the mid-range to conserve fuel.

 

[stagesrt4]

id shoot for 175 psi domes with your setup n how you ride

lightened flyweel doesnt change anything... just makes the rotational mass lighter....

my X2 with 190psi runs 93 octane with Zero detonation(but i blip a lot)

 

[bird]

Ada states the 32cc domes are 180psi, so I can't really get 175 can I? I can also remove the jumper and go back to stock timing. I only noticed a sharper hit in the mid range with it anyway.

 

[user_error]

do not bump compression AND do the timing jump without increasing octane. it is basically 1 or the other to stay absolutely safe on pump gas...185 psi and the temp sensor bypass on 91 octane is asking for trouble

 

[stagesrt4]

Ada states the 32cc domes are 180psi, so I can't really get 175 can I? I can also remove the jumper and go back to stock timing. I only noticed a sharper hit in the mid range with it anyway.

thats a rough number

depends on current compression n what gauge


can always change thickness of base/head gaskets to achieve desired #

 

[bird]

I will check the compression once I get the head installed, and most likely re-connect the sensor. I currently have about 156+ compression at 870ft elevation on my cheapo Comp gauge, both cylinders are dead even.

stagesrt4 I get paid tomorrow

 

[stagesrt4]

if you really want it just send me your address n Ill mail it now

 

[bird]

one last question, the ADA has all o-rings. So can you play with head gasket thickness?

 

[boostedegos]

The ADA o-rings will replace the head gasket. You'll likely need to scrape the top of the cylinder clean before installing

 

[bird]

I have a gasket remover disk with the soft fingers.

 

[stagesrt4]

yea the o-ring ADA head doesnt require head gasket i believe

my o-ring WC head does require it tho

 

[Quinc]

I currently have one mod done to my stock engine, the temp sensor jump. That puts my SXR at a 6 degree advance.

How do you do the temp sensor jump?

@SVTPete83

 

[stagesrt4]

Save money, make your own ignition advance jumper using a 3M UR connector.
It works well and is waterproof.
You can get them at Lowes or Home Depot!

Your air temp sensor:

Cut the wires even and near the middle
(so you can reverse this procedure if you want to)

Insert the conductor ends from the plug end completely into the UR connector until they bottom out.

Crimp down firmly with some pliers until the dialectric grease squeezes out and the red button is flush

You are done, plug it back into your ski, VOILA! 6 degree advance.

Its true about the stock skis winning. Its about the rider. Practice, Practice, Practice. You can beat faster skis being a better rider!!!

 

[SVTPete83]

Yes. Interested to see if its done already on my ski.

 

[SVTPete83]

Awesome! Thanks man

 

[djkorn1]

Can't I just solder the two wires together with some shrink wrap to advance the timing?

 

[subhard]

Like these guys are saying you can bump compression and do the jump but it WILL seize your motor if held wfo for extended periods of time. Even on 91 octane fuel. Ask me how I know. This is because the jump is not a static advance. It turns into a 23 degree advance when wide open. So if you're only interested in low end then do both and just be careful.

 

[bird]

Can't I just solder the two wires together with some shrink wrap to advance the timing?

I thought the same, but the wire must be stainless or some other non-corrosive metal. I could not get solder to stick, went with a waterproof automotive crimp.

I found a place in town that carries 94 octane, so I'll probably start going there. Just a little farther drive.