a few fiberglass questions?

G

Goose

Guest
im working on a project right now and need some input from others on this.the peice im working with has alot of corners and tight spots and i never found it easy to get 3/4mat to lay up easily but others i talk to dont have a problem.is their any suggestions on how to get the mat to lay better i usually use a brush to dab it out.im using a mixture of 6oz e glass and 3/4 mat it needs to be strong and not too heavy.i have enough e glass to do the project with all e glass but it will take more layers to get a decent thickness as if i were to throw some layers of mat in.is the e glass stronger than the mat so is it possible that i will not need the thickness of the mat if i go with all e glass.any advice is appreciated at this point
thanks
 

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Well it is defiantly easier to lay more layers of e-glass than to try to get mat to lay down,a lot of times I will lay a layer of e-glass over the mat to help pin it down also using epoxy resin helps it is a lot stickier than polyester resin.
 
G

Goose

Guest
i am using vinel ester resin.with the e glass being 60z and the mat being 3/4 oz will it weigh more with just e glass and will i be sacrificeing any strenght
 
G

Goose

Guest
well I didnt want to get anyone upset or start the drama but im building a topdeck for myself i have the mold done and i started laying it up today
 
G

Goose

Guest
the whole topdeck the gunwale area is tough to get in with a brush i did cut the handle off im gonna try a roller but the area that is recessed for the turf to be is a pain to get down and i know its gonna be a real pain the try to get the matting to stick down in that small of a crease
 

aof13

Sfl free since 3/28
the whole topdeck the gunwale area is tough to get in with a brush i did cut the handle off im gonna try a roller but the area that is recessed for the turf to be is a pain to get down and i know its gonna be a real pain the try to get the matting to stick down in that small of a crease

i dont know what kinda brush you're using, but anything ~ 1in or smaller would fit in there perfectly. Make sure you have bubble rollers.

Are you using gelcoat? What did you use for a releasing agent? I hope you have a large flange for prying.
 
G

Goose

Guest
yea i talked back and forth with him he did chime in a little wamilton was excellant help as far as telling me how to lay up he doesnt say what he uses as material which is understandable but helped me with what i was using.im just trying to figure out if all e glass is the way to go and is it stronger than mat.and the topdecks are worth the money in man hrs trust me
 

aof13

Sfl free since 3/28
if money isnt an option, i recommend s-glass. it's amazingly strong, and relatively lightweight.
 
G

Goose

Guest
i have a 4 in lip for prying if i need to and wamilton helped me with some tips on what to do to the mold to make it almost fall out.i did use gelcoat and i waxed the mold with partall wax and i used pva mold release.I was using a 2in brush i dunno if a 1 would be any better its getting the sides thats a pain in the gunwale
 
G

Goose

Guest
i have 45yds of e glass so hate to have to get more and is their a huge difference between the s glass
 

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Location
s florida
yea i talked back and forth with him he did chime in a little wamilton was excellant help as far as telling me how to lay up he doesnt say what he uses as material which is understandable but helped me with what i was using.im just trying to figure out if all e glass is the way to go and is it stronger than mat.and the topdecks are worth the money in man hrs trust me

you got that right!:cool2: you first have to determine how thick you want the part to be. It's often better to try a small test part first before attempting huge ones. Always use a skin coat (3/4 mat) before moving to heavier glass. You gotta to be patient with the corners and roll the hell out of them. If your skin coat is not applied properly, you'll end up with air pockets behind the gelcoat that will cave in when pressure is applied to it. If your able to vacuum bad the part, that would be the weay to go:biggthumpup: Also, try not to over catalize the resin so you can evenly lay out each layer throughout the entire part. How did you apply the gelcoat? spray gun or dump gun? what is the gelcoat thickness you used? I reccomend at least a 20 ml coat. Be carefull with applying to much release agent. Too much will create pre-releasing and scrap the part (I've done that too many times already:banghead: )
Bottom line, is that there are many variables that will affect the outcome of every part. Sometimes, you just have to experiment and learn through experience!
How hope this helped
 

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Location
s florida
thats an awesome project. i think quite a few people have been heading down this road lately. did you see flash fx's hull build thread? might be good for a few ideas.. his hull build thread might put some professional guys to shame!!!!!!!


can you please elaborate!!!
 
G

Goose

Guest
steve thankyou very much for your help over the phone today.I learned alot in that 20 mins you took to explaine a few things and i went home and ended up using a roller and taking a try with the mat and it worked out great so im gonna pop the started peice out and start over.thanks again
 
steve,

actually, i did not bring up the rideplate. actually, youre the one quoting all of my posts in this thread and looking for some trouble (very professional of you, btw). go look for drama somewhere else please.


come on bro....steve didnt say chit............but this comment of yours was meant to sting :rolleyes:

thats an awesome project. i think quite a few people have been heading down this road lately. did you see flash fx's hull build thread? might be good for a few ideas.. his hull build thread might put some professional guys to shame!!!!!!!



saki------->:pokey:





:purr:
 
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