Blaster 94 WaveBlaster Issue, Ideas Appreciated!

Hey guys, I'm having a issue with my WaveBlaster and looking for ideas! I'm a first time WaveBlaster owner.

After the engine is hot, if I'm full throttle for a while and come down quickly the ski stalls and either refuses to start or takes a really long time to start. It has left me stranded once already.

It fires right up cold no problem. No choke needed. When hot, I need to trigger the throttle a bit to get it to run. It seems to run really lumpy when I do this too, then smooths out once it gets going... but I think this could just be the exhaust sound and I'm not used to it?

It's bone stock, new plugs (not ruined from flooding out), fresh gas, fresh oil and fully rebuilt carb.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
 

Quinc

Buy a Superjet
Location
California
When you come back into shore from it not starting check if you have spark. If not unplug your stop wires down by the ebox. Black and whites. Check for spark again. If still no spark check your ground. Still no spark it is probably your cdi/enhancer.
 
When you come back into shore from it not starting check if you have spark. If not unplug your stop wires down by the ebox. Black and whites. Check for spark again. If still no spark check your ground. Still no spark it is probably your cdi/enhancer.

Will do.
 
Location
NY
Op is a giant homo.

If you are going to be near Albany any time soon with it message me and we can take a look. I have every spare part imaginable.

Need more info on the boat too. Is everything 100 percent stock? Flame arrestor included?
 
Op is a giant homo.

If you are going to be near Albany any time soon with it message me and we can take a look. I have every spare part imaginable.

Need more info on the boat too. Is everything 100 percent stock? Flame arrestor included?

Haha what's up man! 100% stock. Previously owned by a doctor and it appears in great shape all around for being 20 years old... except for this issue.

If it can't get it running right, maybe I will take it out your way. I haven't seen any of these skis around my area. I have a hitch hauler for it so moving around is easy.

On the right obviously:

10449042_1426227777640085_214472464_n.jpg


Yes, it has the stock flame arrestor. I haven't been able to work on it yet. I tried Sunday, but I have it in a marina on the Niagara River and if any of you guys know the area it's swamped and real choppy on weekends.

My plan is to try messing with the carb settings first before I dig into the electrical. I was quoted $170 for a new coil and $377 for a new CDI.
 
Last edited:
Location
NY
The blaster section is dead but the NY section is booming. I have a cdi I could send you to test, and you can get used known good coils from jet maniac for much less than that. The carbs are retarded simple. Shouldn't be too hard to get figured out no matter what its got going on
 
The blaster section is dead but the NY section is booming. I have a cdi I could send you to test, and you can get used known good coils from jet maniac for much less than that. The carbs are retarded simple. Shouldn't be too hard to get figured out no matter what its got going on

Thanks for the offer, I'll let you know. The problem is that I can't really bench test the ski. I have to run it flat out for several minutes (5 or more) to replicate the stall. And if I can't get it started I need to be towed back in since the river has a current that would take me over the falls eventually, lol. I have a friend who will go out with me to tow if needed.

If it's running great every other time I'd think the electrical would be fine. When I first bought it, it would break up when running flat out but that's when it had some old gas in it. I haven't had that happen since changing the plugs / gas.

Question on the carbs though: the low speed adjuster has a cap on it which prevents it from turning more than 1/4 in either direction. Would you recommend that I pull off the cap and check that it's at the factory spec'd 1 and 7/8 turns? Or just leave it where it is and adjust from there?

Sferone thought it might be too lean so I'm going to try there first. However the first time this happened (before my carb rebuild) I replaced the plugs to try and get it running again and when that didn't work, pulled out the new plugs and they looked wet. I thought it might have been to rich due to an old carb causing flooding. That could have been a lack of spark too though...

I just can't wait until it's running 100% so days like today I can get out there.
 
Location
NY
Your description makes me think carb issues. Electrical stuff is usually more consistent. Your low speed screw isn't doing much more than adjusting your idle honestly. If you want too test it go out and crack the throttle and count to 30 then grab a handful. If it dies you're lean. If it goes then stumbles you're rich. If it just goes we need to look beyond jetting. Still may be a carb issue, but we could rule out jetting.
 
Well when warm it idles for a short time then cuts out too. And takes a few trigger pulls to get started again. I was thinking that at speed, once I let off the throttle and the engine tried to jump to idle it might be starved of fuel.

I'll try your method and see what happens.
 
Here are some links that have helped me with Carburetor tuning:

http://www.groupk.com/tec-carbs97.htm

http://www.factorypipe.com/t_carbtuning.php

Don't rule out electrical, I had a similar symptoms with my SXR and found that water had got into the Ebox and soaked my CDI.

Ruling out electrical would certainly save me some money though :)

As I read those pages it makes me think I need to make the low speed a bit more rich. When warm I'm always having to use the throttle to help it start. That, or fuel pressure might be a issue so I'll check that as well.
 
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