Freestyle Who DOES NOT like a shortened SJ for flat water freestyle?

Should I shorten the lower deck for flatwater, even with a sissy motor?

  • Yes- will make barrel rolling/stabbing more fun even if its a 650

    Votes: 2 14.3%
  • No- Only shorten for backflips

    Votes: 1 7.1%
  • No- unless you get more power

    Votes: 1 7.1%
  • remove rear lip and leave bottom alone

    Votes: 1 7.1%
  • STFU and shorten the damn thing already!!!

    Votes: 9 64.3%

  • Total voters
    14
Ive done some research on shortening the bottom of the hull, and most people seem to like it if its not too short. I cant find much feedback from the guys who dont like it. has anyone shortened their hull and made it harder for them to roll/stab from a setup wake? Im only gonna cut it 3 or 4 inches shorter below the bond line and keep the tray stock length. May also cut the baclk lip off too, but i heard having it on makes better set up wakes? Usually theres not much boat activity by me during the week so its just me jumping my own setup wakes.

Im running a bone stock quare nose, upgraded to a 61x bone stock with hopefully an exhaust/prop by the spring time. No plans on any other performance mods at the moment. Im hesitant on chopping up my ski and basically ruining it, since SJ are hard to find where I live. So scrapping this hull and buying another are not really an option for me. I realize every rider is different and not everyone is gonna like the same setups, but nobody around me has modded/ shortened hulls that I can test ride first. (I did get to ride a rickter once, but thats not comparable lol)


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Midlake Crisis

Site Supporter
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Great question - I am in a similar situation and would love to hear feedback from people who have done it. I like your plan and may do the same before Spring unless somebody changes my mind. AM hull gets expensive fast.
 

Proformance1

Liquid Insanity
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
New York Crew
Did mine -2 1/2" loved it, wish I hadnt sold it. I would go shorter next time, not sure how much, some people claim -4" make it squirly at any speed. I dont know. Only reason id never do again is time and cost. I did it the best i possibly could, all carbon reinforced, made a carbon tray added RRP adj foothoolds, painted it, etc. By the time i was done i could have bought a really nice used or some new hulls. Materials add up, most people just pend 50 here 50 ther so they dont look at it correctly. Its expensive. IMO
 
Ok well guess I should just cut it up then. May just do 3" and once I get it where I want I'll throw a cheap yoga mat on there and test ride it. If it feels good, then I will cut the lip off, and if it's an improvement then I'll make it pretty and do a proper turf job. Now where did I leave the chain saw?! :scratchchin:
 
Location
australia
Did mine -2 1/2" loved it, wish I hadnt sold it. I would go shorter next time, not sure how much, some people claim -4" make it squirly at any speed. I dont know. Only reason id never do again is time and cost. I did it the best i possibly could, all carbon reinforced, made a carbon tray added RRP adj foothoolds, painted it, etc. By the time i was done i could have bought a really nice used or some new hulls. Materials add up, most people just pend 50 here 50 ther so they dont look at it correctly. Its expensive. IMO


Mine only cost 700 for complete hull with paint and turf, that's lowered hood , rocker, 2.5 off the rear, wide tray reinforced everywhere...used about 10 metres of glass. Can't find a.m hull here for that price.
 

DarkWater

Down Side Up
Location
waterford, MI
I have a -4.5, with tubbies and cut bond rails. Its squirrelly, loose, maneuverable, and fun as h3ll. I have several ride plates for different moods. After about 5 mins I could ride WOT on any length ride plate.
I prefer it over stock length any day.
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
My last SJ was -4 on the bottom and i left the tray full length. The ride plate was cut flush with the hull and it rode very similar to a stock hull, I could ride wide open without any problems.
 

Proformance1

Liquid Insanity
Site Supporter
Vendor Account
Location
New York Crew
I used tubbie destroyers as well. Aftermarket hulls start at 3500. For my argument, for example, buy a used RN hull, 500-2000. Buy 8 meters of carbon, good resin, RRP footholds, tubbie destroyers, two rolls turf, under pad, front foothold, turf glue, plexus, hull inserts for short ride plate, 5200 to seal everything up, trim tube, scupper system. Yeah doesnt sound expensive??? LOL Just saying, I can do it cheaper, but IMO, I do it right or I dont do it at all. All Im saying is that for me after building a bunch of skis, it no longer makes sense. Add it up, if it adds up for you then def do it. The learning experience is def worth it and as long as you dont go too short it will ride fine
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
You can save money by not wasting it on carbon. Fibreglass is alot cheaper and works perfect for shortening hulls. As far as how short? That depends on weight of the rider. My hull is as short as a rickter xfs and having the rider weight above the pump inlet is key. The shorter the hull the more forward you will want your footholds and shorter pole. Shortening a hull you own will always be cheaper than an AM hull. Even if its a cheap beat up used one.
 
Im in the process of cutting mine 4.75 now. Ill also be moving the tray forward about the same, widening it and lowering the sides at the same time.
 
just outside peoria. ride in the illinois river between pekin and east peoria area.

Funny, just getting off work tonight at a job in Pekin, Il and this is the first thread I see. If I get some work up here this summer I'll definitely bring my ski back.

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