SXR Hydrolock kinda/ water intrusion/ stumped

I have a SXR 800 wit the aftermarket Riva flame arrestors. long story short, the ski was being ran hard and water got in it. to the point it died. Now it won't crank, the starter wants to turn but it just won't, like to much resistance. took the plugs out and NO STANDING WATER in the chambers. Starter still won't spin the engine. looking at the crank while hiting the start button it rotates 1/50 of a turn and returns. Also looking into the carbs there is standing water sitting under the throttle butterflys.

I'm guessing that somehow the crankcase is filled with water? OR is a rod broken and lodged up againest the block and preventing it from rotating?
any guesses why it won't fully crank?

any tips?

thanks
 

easyrhino

needs more cowbell.
Location
The river
Vent water out the pulse lines.
Some way, hold open the reeds.
Pull cylinders.

I've all ways been able to bump the starter to clear water out of the bottom end after sinking it while at idle. Some times it takes 10 to 20 bumps.

Some of the Kawies have drains, but I don't know what models have that feature.
 
Was it towed in at a high speed after the seizure?

Nope, I pulled it on to the back of my boat, look at my avater pic. that's how I got it back home. One of my friends was riding it and trying to sub it while I wasn't look, by running it in circles near underwater for about 40 seconds. my guess is it slowly filled up with water and got to hydrolock point, when we pulled the motor about a gallon of water poured out of the exhaust.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Nope, I pulled it on to the back of my boat, look at my avater pic. that's how I got it back home. One of my friends was riding it and trying to sub it while I wasn't look, by running it in circles near underwater for about 40 seconds. my guess is it slowly filled up with water and got to hydrolock point, when we pulled the motor about a gallon of water poured out of the exhaust.

Cool, years ago I got hung up on trying to figure out why an engine died and was full of water but it really had lost a reed and died and I filled it with water towing it back in too fast. Just wanted to put that out there to make sure you were chasing the right symptom. Sounds pretty cut and dry in your case though. The 40 second sub is a big detail. :bigok:
 
Nope, I pulled it on to the back of my boat, look at my avater pic. that's how I got it back home. One of my friends was riding it and trying to sub it while I wasn't look, by running it in circles near underwater for about 40 seconds. my guess is it slowly filled up with water and got to hydrolock point, when we pulled the motor about a gallon of water poured out of the exhaust.

some friend ! can I get his name and number so he can ride my ski !!!
 

vitalikol

Jetski-Snowboard
Location
Pennington,NJ
Nope, I pulled it on to the back of my boat, look at my avater pic. that's how I got it back home. One of my friends was riding it and trying to sub it while I wasn't look, by running it in circles near underwater for about 40 seconds. my guess is it slowly filled up with water and got to hydrolock point, when we pulled the motor about a gallon of water poured out of the exhaust.

Now you know where send a bill and let him know how much 40 sec of stupidity cost.
 
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holy crap...hopefully just a crank, bore and topend.

Ok, maybe i'm missing something here.
I was just gonna buy the crank/rod assembly. it doesn't look like the head or the bore/sleve was damaged.
I'm mechanicly inclined,but this is my first engine rebuild. the head and bore/sleve doesn't need to be replaced does it?

Also if anyone can chime in. since it's all apart i'm toying with the idea of getting a new head with different dome to up the compression maybe 20 PSI. any thoughts? is a new head with diff domes all i need to do this. I know i will need to run premium all the time if compression goes up.
 
you are lucky that rod didnt snap in half and blow the bottom of that motor off.

yea i know. i was reading about broken rods on here last night and got so freaked out i went to the garage at 3 am to feel the bottom of the motor to make sure there wasn't a hole in it.
 
In my opinion you need new wrist pin bearings after all that pressure. If your putting a new crank in it, it makes sense to probably just rebuild the whole damn thing. The pistons look like that have hours on them too. If your going to keep it its worth it to do it right. Even if you were going to sell it, it would be screwy to "just make it run" and then sell it.

Save money on the AF head and just bring it to a machine shop to mill the head to bump of the compression.
 
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djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
FULL REBUILD. Top End, Crank, Gaskets, Bore, and take carbs apart and clean them out or you'll only get a couple months out of it.
 
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