300/440/550 X2 impeller swap

[3wheelerdude]

Now that I have a new impeller on the way, I was wondering if there is some things I need to know to complete the impeller swap. Any things to be carefull with or special order to take parts appart. This will be my first impeller job but it looks pretty straight foward.
If anyone has a walkthrough it would even better.
Thanks

 

[Crab]

Impeller tool, and use some anti seize on the threads before installing the new one. Check your bearings for roughness, you'll know.

 

[Project Ski]

i just read antiseize on stainless is no good, it causes corosion

 

[Crab]

Bs

 

[Legdragger]

Stainless doesn't corrode. Anti-seize is just graphite in grease.

I had a couple impellers come loose off the pump shaft so I would say some blue loctite might be the way to go. It isn't on a Superjet. If you have an old driveshaft you can just stick that in the vise and use an adjustable on the end of the pump shaft to get it loose. I have never had a really bad one except on on the 750 pump I borrowed. I broke the shaft off inside the impeller whish isn't a big deal if you are changing it out anyway. The shafts are relatively cheap from WSMif you do have trouble. I reccomend changing the 2 bearings and 2 front seals. Don't loose the big aluminum spacer or the small stainless spacer. They NEED to be in there for it all to work right.

If your stainless liner is too swollen for a new impeller to slide into you can take the high spots down with an air grinder and flapper wheel. 40 grit is good.

 

[Crab]

Stainless doesn't corrode. Anti-seize is just graphite in grease.

I had a couple impellers come loose off the pump shaft so I would say some blue loctite might be the way to go. It isn't on a Superjet. If you have an old driveshaft you can just stick that in the vise and use an adjustable on the end of the pump shaft to get it loose. I have never had a really bad one except on on the 750 pump I borrowed. I broke the shaft off inside the impeller whish isn't a big deal if you are changing it out anyway. The shafts are relatively cheap from WSMif you do have trouble. I reccomend changing the 2 bearings and 2 front seals. Don't loose the big aluminum spacer or the small stainless spacer. They NEED to be in there for it all to work right.

If your stainless liner is too swollen for a new impeller to slide into you can take the high spots down with an air grinder and flapper wheel. 40 grit is good.

Pete, I took 4mm off my spacer to help get some setback, then clearanced the hub.

 

[3wheelerdude]

Great, keep the tips comin...

Anyone got an exploded diagram of an X2 pump?

 

[3wheelerdude]

OK, so I found the diagram on ParkerYam site. Looks like the impeller is the last part on the shaft, so everything need to come out. But I cant see where I would need an impeller tool? Isnt the impeller just slided over the shaft with some sort of spline to hold it in place?

 

[Legdragger]

The impeller tool is what goes in the impeller after you pull it off the driveshaft. You can make your own if you have an extra drivesaft to cut the splined end plus a foot off of. Just hold that splined shaft/tool in a vice with the impeller on it in the pump housing and spin the other end of the pump shaft with an adjustable and a pipe cheater on it. laying the whole thing horizontal with it supported on a bench to push against makes it a lot easier. You need to turn it counter clockwise, it has normal threads in the impeller.