hey guys i would like to change my impeller from the stock pos. i am new to pwc and have done a few mods such as pipe and carb and intake. this one seems a bit harder to perform...is it? i assume i have to take the pump out of the ski? this kinda scares me, i have never done that before. i really dont want to take it to the shop and get bent over. how big of a pain in the ass is this job? do i need any special tools etc...thanks
x-2 impeller r&r
- Thread starter hellcat66
- Start date
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
The only special tool you need is an impeller wrench,You will need a vise to hold the end of the pump shaft,other than that its is simply unbolt,pry the pump loose from the silicone,reseal and reinstall.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Its a very easy thing to do.
1) Remove rideplate (4 bolts)
2) remove Intake Grate (3 bolts) and while your at it, replace this STOCK POS grate. Even a cheesy Westcoast deep grate is fine.
3) Remove nozzle (4 bolts)
4) Remove 4 allenhead bolts holding pump on. (You will need an allenhead socket and socket extender to get to them).
5) Disconnect the waterlines from the pump.
6) Pull pump off the hull. This is kind of a PIA because sometimes the silicone puts up a good fight. ****DISCLAIMER. Grip the driveshaft and keep pressure toward the motor while doing this. This will prevent the driveshaft from disconnecting from the motor. If this happens, the coupler dampener may have fallen off.... and will need to be reinstalled (which normally means the exhaust has to come off unles you are flexible like gumby).
7) Now take the pump to your workbench. Remove the tail cone (2 bolts).
8) Put exposed pump shaft into vise. You will now need the PROP REMOVAL TOOL (Part # 62-2029) $13.
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/tools__pump_tools.htm
Install the REMOVAL tool into the IMPELLER. And turn the IMPELLER tool with a socket. (Sometimes the impeller can be a BITCH, and you will need a cheater bar or a impact).
9) Reinstall new impeller the same way. Grease the PUMPSHAFT threads before installing the new prop. Torque it on tight. THEN REINSTALL THE CONE.
10) THIS IS OPTIONAL. But remove the water fitting from the pump and drill it out to 1/4" or so. This will give the cooling system much more flow.
11) Clean old silicone off the hull with wire brush, die grinder with wire brush works awesome for this.
12) *** BEFORE DOING THIS MAKE SURE THE DRIVESHAFT IS STILL ATTACHED TO THE MOTOR BY TRYING TO TURN IT BY HAND. If it spins freely you much check the couplers and damper.
Silicone the area the pump meets up to the hull with QUALITY SILICONE. Permatex RTV is really good. There are others... This is the most important part to get good coverage. Any gaps will result in AIR entering the pump and MASSIVE cavitation.
12a) Reinstall pump onto the hull where you have siliconed. Smooth over the silicone with your finger to remove globs. (WEAR GLOVES).
13) Reconnect waterlines.
14) Reinstall nozzle, intake grate, and rideplate.
15) Let silicone cure for 24hours if you use permatex RTV.
16) RIDE and enjoy not having stock PEICE OF
IMPELLER. Your boat will feel like a completely different boat. Biggest improvement to a basic X2 setup you can do.
1) Remove rideplate (4 bolts)
2) remove Intake Grate (3 bolts) and while your at it, replace this STOCK POS grate. Even a cheesy Westcoast deep grate is fine.
3) Remove nozzle (4 bolts)
4) Remove 4 allenhead bolts holding pump on. (You will need an allenhead socket and socket extender to get to them).
5) Disconnect the waterlines from the pump.
6) Pull pump off the hull. This is kind of a PIA because sometimes the silicone puts up a good fight. ****DISCLAIMER. Grip the driveshaft and keep pressure toward the motor while doing this. This will prevent the driveshaft from disconnecting from the motor. If this happens, the coupler dampener may have fallen off.... and will need to be reinstalled (which normally means the exhaust has to come off unles you are flexible like gumby).
7) Now take the pump to your workbench. Remove the tail cone (2 bolts).
8) Put exposed pump shaft into vise. You will now need the PROP REMOVAL TOOL (Part # 62-2029) $13.
http://www.atlanticjetsports.com/tools__pump_tools.htm
Install the REMOVAL tool into the IMPELLER. And turn the IMPELLER tool with a socket. (Sometimes the impeller can be a BITCH, and you will need a cheater bar or a impact).
9) Reinstall new impeller the same way. Grease the PUMPSHAFT threads before installing the new prop. Torque it on tight. THEN REINSTALL THE CONE.
10) THIS IS OPTIONAL. But remove the water fitting from the pump and drill it out to 1/4" or so. This will give the cooling system much more flow.
11) Clean old silicone off the hull with wire brush, die grinder with wire brush works awesome for this.
12) *** BEFORE DOING THIS MAKE SURE THE DRIVESHAFT IS STILL ATTACHED TO THE MOTOR BY TRYING TO TURN IT BY HAND. If it spins freely you much check the couplers and damper.
Silicone the area the pump meets up to the hull with QUALITY SILICONE. Permatex RTV is really good. There are others... This is the most important part to get good coverage. Any gaps will result in AIR entering the pump and MASSIVE cavitation.
12a) Reinstall pump onto the hull where you have siliconed. Smooth over the silicone with your finger to remove globs. (WEAR GLOVES).
13) Reconnect waterlines.
14) Reinstall nozzle, intake grate, and rideplate.
15) Let silicone cure for 24hours if you use permatex RTV.
16) RIDE and enjoy not having stock PEICE OF
IMPELLER. Your boat will feel like a completely different boat. Biggest improvement to a basic X2 setup you can do.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
I do it right on the trailer, just let the back of the ski hang over the end of the trailer so that the entire rideplate is hanging over. For safety....I would recommend supprting the back of the trailer with a cinder block so it doesnt tip back and land on your legs. Or a stand would work just fine.
Just go step by step..... it maybe intimidating at first, but once you have done it you'll be so happy you did. You get totally stuck.....Worst case, take it to the shop. But atleast try first. I dont think there could be anything that would happen that we cant talk you threw. Just be careful not to over tighten any of the bolts that go into the hull. You do NOT want to damage/strip out any of the mounting points for rideplate, ect. Also LOCKTITE (BLUE) every bolt that goes back in, and use some grease around the CONE's ORING to help it seal. I also throw some grease on top of the pump bearing (under the cone). This isnt to lubricate the bearing, its more to protect it if any water happens to get in.
Just go step by step..... it maybe intimidating at first, but once you have done it you'll be so happy you did. You get totally stuck.....Worst case, take it to the shop. But atleast try first. I dont think there could be anything that would happen that we cant talk you threw. Just be careful not to over tighten any of the bolts that go into the hull. You do NOT want to damage/strip out any of the mounting points for rideplate, ect. Also LOCKTITE (BLUE) every bolt that goes back in, and use some grease around the CONE's ORING to help it seal. I also throw some grease on top of the pump bearing (under the cone). This isnt to lubricate the bearing, its more to protect it if any water happens to get in.
Last edited:
WFO Speedracer
A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
- Location
- Alabama
Regular thread and the tool is the same.
what about adding dual cooling at this point? i will be running stock head, wc pipe and mani, 44 sbn wc intake mani and f\a. i know thats nothin great and prob not enough for dual cooling? what do you think? i cant get this x2 off my mind and i have snow flying tomorrow. i need to refill my meds for f u cksake!!!!! i cant ride til march!!!!!!
Motorheads5
Livin the generation gap
- Location
- ketchikan alaska
HAHAHA Shawn you rock kid good attitude :Banane09:
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Dual doesnt hurt anything, but its not needed. Its more of a safety precaution incase ones gets clogged. Single cooling is more then sufficient for your setup, but dual is better.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Yes replace that pissser fitting ASAP. Cooling lines should be fine, replacing the thru hull ones is a BIG job and not needed. For the motors cooling lines 3/8" air hose works awesome and is cheap.
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
When you install your new impeller in the pump and it rubs, or will not spin....you know the wear ring is no good. I dont think you can replace this yourself though (unless you have a press and machinist handy). Your probably going to have to send the pump away at that point.
If thats the case, call Exactal Tool here in NJ. They have a good deal on rebuilt pumps with new wear rings and bearings. And Scott is a super cool dude and an X2 rider!
If thats the case, call Exactal Tool here in NJ. They have a good deal on rebuilt pumps with new wear rings and bearings. And Scott is a super cool dude and an X2 rider!
Last edited:
shawn_NJ
Chasing waves.
- Location
- Daytona Beach
Correct
- Location
- Australia Melbourne
x-2
Does a 650sx pump fit in an x2, my pump is shaged but i have a 650 donor with a new pump?? Also if my drive shaft has L & R movement, would this indicate either bearing is shot??
Does a 650sx pump fit in an x2, my pump is shaged but i have a 650 donor with a new pump?? Also if my drive shaft has L & R movement, would this indicate either bearing is shot??