Blaster Won't Start - About To Give Up - Super Frustrated.

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Unfortunately I'm back, I thought I had the Blaster figured out, but after getting it on the water, it ran like crap, was really hard to restart, and now I can't seem to get it started again.

Here's where I'm at.

701 bored 1 over, with a 4mm Stroke. MSD enhancer, factory blaster mod pipe, dual 46's on a pro-tec dual manifold. Compression is about 205lbs on an old RPM Racing Girdled Head kit.

Fuel is flowing through the lines. When I keep the motor turning, I can hear it returning to the fuel tank.

The fuel lines are all 100% clear of blockages.

The fuel lines are running direct from the tank, one line to each carb. There is no selector in line.

The primer is on the return lines, not on the main.

The check valve is working properly.

The fuel lines are 100% hooked up properly. I've checked, and re-checked a million times. Input on the lower nipple, return on the higher nipple, and pulse on the pulse plate. (fuel is moving through the carbs, and getting back to the tank thru the return line)

I have fuel filters in line, and can see fuel moving through them, and both are filling up when turning the motor.

Pulse is strong on both cylinders into the carbs.

The spark is strong on both cylinders when plugged in, and touched to the head. (can't tell when they're in the head obviously)

I pulled the carbs off today, and took them apart. They were clear of blockages, nothing damaged, nothing appears bent, broken, or torn in any way. The diaphrams looked good, no tears.

The 46's are running a 2.5 n/s 190 high speed jet, and 120 low speed. The springs are silver, but I couldn't tell which ones they were.

The engine passes a leakdown test, and holds pressure fine.

The fuel lines are tight, the tank remains pressurized if I blow in to the check valve line.

I'm at a loss at this point. There's spark, fuel pressure, and the only way to start the thing is to prime the hell out of it to the point that when it does fire, it revs high for a second because there's so much fuel in the cylinders. I can't give it one squirt, it has to be 2-3 full squirts to even get it to fire at all, even after being warm.

I know someone is going to recommend testing pop-off pressure, and I do have a gauge, I just haven't had a chance to actually do it yet today. Do I have to pull the carbs to test pop-off, or is there some way to leave them on the motor and test it that way?

Thanks
 

yamanube

This Is The Way
Staff member
Location
Mandalor
Are you definitely getting fuel into the throat of the carb (you should be able to see this while cranking over, covering the tops of the carbs with your hands while cranking will help them prime faster)?
 

Ducky

Back in the game!
Location
Charlotte, NC
Im sure this isnt you problem, but I have done it, and had the exact same symptoms as you.....I installed the diaphragms backwards in the carbs. Just something to check. The little metal part should toward the inside and not the outside.
 
I had a ski come to me that ran like crap. Long story short, when he rebuilt the carbs, he didn't put the clear diaphragm back in for the fuel pump... Just something to check.
 

Mark44

Katie's Boss
Location
100% one place
I hate to ask.............. Lanyard in? I have been known to crank and crank on my ski just to find out the lanyard is still on my wrist.
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Alright, thanks for all the responses so far...
Are you definitely getting fuel into the throat of the carb (you should be able to see this while cranking over, covering the tops of the carbs with your hands while cranking will help them prime faster)?

This I don't know. I saw a guy blow up a waterbox (like actual explosion/flame) by cranking to check for fuel dripping, then finally starting, and having a waterbox full of unburned fuel.

Any other way to check?
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
Im sure this isnt you problem, but I have done it, and had the exact same symptoms as you.....I installed the diaphragms backwards in the carbs. Just something to check. The little metal part should toward the inside and not the outside.

Checked this when I pulled them apart. You're saying that the metal nipple points in, so that it hits the float arm. 100% sure this is correct on both carbs.
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
I had a ski come to me that ran like crap. Long story short, when he rebuilt the carbs, he didn't put the clear diaphragm back in for the fuel pump... Just something to check.

I don't think I'd have gotten it to start, and run at all without that... would I?

I'm sure there's one in each carb.
 
- 190 mains seems really fat for jetting...but probably not your starting problem but wouldn't make it run good if it's way rich.
- with both carbs taking a line from tank...do both pickups in tank go to bottom? Could one be sucking air?
- is your return restrictor drilled out and if so are u running a jet in the return line.
-have u tried unplugging the black white on the start stop switch and seeing if it runs?
-is there water in your cylinders...water would kill your spark and make it hard to start

Just some ideas for u
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
- 190 mains seems really fat for jetting...but probably not your starting problem but wouldn't make it run good if it's way rich.
- with both carbs taking a line from tank...do both pickups in tank go to bottom? Could one be sucking air?
- is your return restrictor drilled out and if so are u running a jet in the return line.
-have u tried unplugging the black white on the start stop switch and seeing if it runs?
-is there water in your cylinders...water would kill your spark and make it hard to start

Just some ideas for u

190 is probably a little on the heavy side, but I don't think that's the issue either. It wouldn't have a real impact on starting anyway.

Yes, I'm 100% sure both pickups make it to the bottom of the tank, I pulled and looked just to be 100% sure. I'm also seeing fuel flowing through both inline fuel filters, so there's definitely fuel moving.

No restriction of any kind in the return lines.

The electronics, including the switch, are brand new and functioning properly. Yes, I gave it a shot without the black/white plugged in, and unfortunately nothing different.

There's no water in the cylinders, 100% clear. I've had the plugs out a million times at this point, and keep clearing the cylinders to make sure i'm not ending up with a bunch of un-spent fuel.
 
You mention the return lines are clear of obstruction but on the inside of the carb there is an orifice that restricts the return line before it goes out the nipple back through the lines. Sometimes this orifice gets drilled out and a return line restrictor is used with a jet. Can you confirm if it is drilled out or not? If it is you'll need to
Put a restrictor jet in the return line
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
You mention the return lines are clear of obstruction but on the inside of the carb there is an orifice that restricts the return line before it goes out the nipple back through the lines. Sometimes this orifice gets drilled out and a return line restrictor is used with a jet. Can you confirm if it is drilled out or not? If it is you'll need to
Put a restrictor jet in the return line

No, it's not drilled out.

What I mean is, it's stock as it came from Mikuni. There's no restrictors in the fuel lines.
 

DAG

Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
Location
Charlotte, NC
going back to what alex said
I had a ski come to me that ran like crap. Long story short, when he rebuilt the carbs, he didn't put the clear diaphragm back in for the fuel pump... Just something to check.

I agree. I fought hard starts on my blaster for a year and it ended up being the tiny clear check valves. So double check those little f’rs. And look very very close, any crease even a tiny one is enough to not allow the seal to close and cause hard starts. Typically a spike increase in fuel pressure will cause the disc to crease.
 

retroicon

XX-xx-XX-xx-XX
going back to what alex said


I agree. I fought hard starts on my blaster for a year and it ended up being the tiny clear check valves. So double check those little f’rs. And look very very close, any crease even a tiny one is enough to not allow the seal to close and cause hard starts. Typically a spike increase in fuel pressure will cause the disc to crease.

They're 100% brand new, and Mikuni parts. (not WSM or SBT)
 
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