Blaster Won't restart but does the next day

Ok so as I've had a variety of issues that you gusy have fixed I've done a bunch of searches and don't remember anything quite like this.

First, I got the tuning pretty good so ski will start on 1-2 cranks but here comes the problem. I take the blaster around the lake 1 or 2 times and either fly off because I hit a wake bad or I was tuning so I'd come back in to make an adjustment. Well, ski won't restart. Not the kinda starting issue were it cranks but actually nothing, no noise no nothing. Just replaced the starter with one from Jetmaniac.

Here's what happens if I let the blaster sit for about a day, it'll restart. Put some waterproff grease in the connectors for the start/stop unit. Sprayed some silicone in the start/stop thinking maybe something got wet in there and no real difference.

I'm wondering if it's an issue of something getting wet? After I changed the cooling lines and added a flush kit there seems to be a little more water in the hull so that's why I wondered if it had to do with something getting wet. Even after spending a bunch of tme trying to tune it still seems to run a little hotter than before I rebuilt the carb but I can still touch the pipe. Again, not sure if this matters but I figured I'd give you some more info.

Hopefully you guys have an idea.
As always thanks in advance.
 
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Matt_E

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I would take the start/stop switch apart and clean or sand the internal contact posts and contact disc. If that doesn't help, check out the contacts in the writing harness.
 
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My friend had a similar issue on his SXI Pro. The stop boot had a pinhole in it which would eventually fill with water and short out the circuit. The ski would not start until the next day when it all dried out
 
Similar thing happened to me replaced nost of elect components found out it was a 10 buck earth cable ,ends looked fine and clean worked well untill i had it on its side(battery pulling down on wire) found out it was holding on by a few wires if that do the wiggle test (shake the :):):):) out it)might help good luck
 
Dmvmechanic I wondered about that because like I said it does runner hotter since I rebuilt the carb and replaced all my cooling lines except it's taken anywhere from 12-48hrs to restart. The engine was cool long before this.

Jays333 thanks I'll check that out too as thats a pretty easy one.
 
So I was only able to work for about 10 minutes which included figuring out how to open up those switches. Door was left open on the garage and the mosquitos were feasting on me.

I looked at the stop switch only right now and all the metal seems clean. Didn't have any di-electric grease on hand so I'll still clean and grease it tomorrow along with the other 2.

Here's a question that comes to mind after doing alot of reading about these switches. Seems most people have an issue with the stop buttom. In this case would't the kill switch part be the bigger issue? If you hold the stop switch in if everything is working you'll still get the starter to engage. If the little clip isn't in for the kill switch nothing happens. Given that nothing at all is happening is the kill switch the best part to start with?
 
disconnect both plugs from the start stop switch when this happens and use a jumper wire from the red to brown on the e-box side of the connector. if it starts the problem is in your switch and if not it's your start solenoid or a ground.
 
Ok well I just have to put the switch back together now. The contacts on the start button were pretty green/brown so hopefully that's the issue. If not, thanks bllewis394 because I'll try that next. Hopefully there is no next, as I've been having to order something new after each ride.

I'll report back in a few hours.
 
Ok well with everything together I hit the green button and everything seems fine. Just put it in the lake hit the button and nothing! So I pulled it back to the house (150yards) and tried jumping the connector on the ebox side. Again, nothing. I guess tonight I'll pull the ebox out and check the solenoid.
 

Matt_E

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Check the pins inside the connectors. Better yet, next time it does this, be ready with a multimeter and measure switch continuity.
 
Checked the switch last night and that was good. So this morning I pulled the ebox out and what did I see? A loose ground for the starter relay/solenoid and whatever else gets attached to it. So that's the good news fired right up.

The bad news, after running for about 15 minutes it's bogging down really bad. I think it's because the jetting from the PO isn't right. I have the low speed screw backed out too much and think it may have just gotten too loose. I'll probably play with it tomorrow alittle bit and since I'll have about 2 more chances to ride so it will be getting rejetted over winter.
 

Matt_E

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A jetting problem shouldn't be intermittent like that. Even at 2 turns out, the adjuster should not come out on its own.
 
First off, Matt I owe you a huge thanks as you always seem to respond to anything I post.

I was told the PO had some carb issues and I know I should have but I never counted the number of turns on the screw. All I know is that it's probably close to 4 full turns out. After I did alot of reading I realized this is way to much but as I was having starter issues I kinda put that aside. I've been working on the tuning for the last 2-3 trips trying to get rid of a bog at full throttle from a dead stop but but with my starter issues tunign was kinda hard.

I did turn it in a little and it now it'll stay running. I've got a no wake restriction on the lake until the morning so I'll probably play with it alittle bit before I have to leave to go home.
 
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