what is the best way to make steering quicker

curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
I relocated the steering hookup on the jet nozzle already. I moved it about 3/4 inch to the inside. I didn't really notice a difference. What is it supposed to do?

I've been switching back and forth between my rn superjet and my fx-1. The fx-1 turns so much quicker with no mods.

Can I increase the throw of the pump nozzle?

The ski turns much quicker to the right then left, but neither is anywhere near the fx-1's speed and throw (they look to be the same throw visually). I've heard this is normal.

What can I do to get fx-1 like steering on my rn superjet?
 
Get an am steering plate that would move the steering mount out a hair more as well as moving the steering in like you did on the pump. I rode an 07 that would turn pretty nicely, not as much as my sn that turns circles around my buddies fx1 but it still turned pretty quick.

I thought the d cut ride plate not only got the nose up a little but also help steering quite a bit, if you have a stock plate to bush wack I would do it. My 09 will probably get the same treatment when It gets here.
 
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curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
Thanks for the info.

Does the am steering plate have any other advantages? I currently have my steering mounted in the center hole of the stock steering plate. Would moving it to the outer most hole give me even more throw?

What about getting a different nozzel? Are there any possiblites there? Or how about triming the stock nozzel where it meets the reduction assemble on the pump so it could turn farther and maybe some sort of different longer throw steering cable. I'm thinking that people have done more to there steering to get more throw, but I haven't heard exactly what parts/ combos people have used.

I rode both skis all day yesterday and I think the rn did turn quicker now (with moving the nozzel attachment in), but the fx-1 turns so much quicker that it still seemed slow.

I have some wider bars on my rn too. Are wider bars for racing to get more leverage? I think they too make steering more akward? The stock bars on my fx-1 are quite a bit narrower which seems to make steering to full lock more comfortable.

How about pole length? Does that make a big difference. My fx-1 has a stock pole length of -2 over the rn superjet. It feels more comfortable to get farther forward for a better pivot point for turns. The rn superjets pole just seems way to far back. When I stand at the farthest point back in the rear of the tray, it's still a bit of a stretch to reach the bars. Would doing a -4 pole mod make the ski easier to ride in general, but take away the ablilty to use the rear portion of the tray (due to it being too hard to reach the pole while standing at the rearmost part of the tray)?

I have a d plate (rideplate) on order. Currently I have a jet dynamics ride plate which I think is extended length over stock. It hooks up really well now. Will the d plate take away much of the hookup that I have currently?
 
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curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
Which steering systems have you tried? Have you tried the am system that the other guy used?

Does the 2.5 inch system you recommended do the same thing as shortening the pole 2.5 inches (assuming that the stock steering is 5 inches)?

If I bought this setup, would I need to get a different steering cable or could I use the stock one from my 01 rn superjet?

Does anyone know of an aftermarket pump nozzle that would give more throw?

How much of a difference does one of these steering systems make? Is it night and day? I suppose there is only so much you can do. I think a shorter bar than the aftermarket wider ones I have will be much better. I think the stock fx-1 setup would be sweet as well. Can one just buy a plumming pipe or something similar if the bar has no bends in it? Has anyone tried this?

Thanks again guys.

Curt
 
rrlc has a good system, I have the shark fab stock length and it works well also. I am sporting a -4 pole on my ski and love it. I would not put a Fx1 stuff on your rn. It has less throw and will cut your turning radius down a ton. The fx1 cable is ment for the fx1 and not the RN. As for the nozzle, I have no experience with nozzles so I can not speak to there effectiveness. I would say it will be a huge difference over stock for sure, I would not get a narrow set of bars, I would start with 0*, I gave my buddy with an 01 my old bars and he loved them due to the improved handling.


To start
Get a am steering plate
get 0* bars

If its still not enough
cut your pole down a couple inches
 

curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
I was not considering using the fx-1 hardware for my rn. I was just comparing the two and their turning ability.

What improvement does an am turn plate give? Smoother, quicker? If I buy one of these will I need an aftermarket steering cable or can I use the stocker?

Does anyone know if a -2.5in steering plate such as suggested will be the same as cutting off 2.5 in off of the pole.

Thanks again.
 
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The turnplate I suggested will give you more nozzle throw with less handlebar movement. The bars wont turn as far, but the nozzle will turn much quicker. I like the straight bar setup on mine which is why I chose the turnplate that I posted up. It will also bring you 2.5 inches forward. Yes, thats the same as shortening the pole that much because the idea is just to bring your stance forward. If you want to go even more, then you could cut down the pole too. Oh, and you will just use the same steering cable. You just want to make sure the turnplate hits the stop before the cable bottoms out or you could break the cable.

Pre-08 RN's are the best skis out there for turning (steering and nozzle throw anyway).
 

curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
I pm'ed the guy linked in his thread already. Umi doesn't appear to have a website.

Where is the "am steering plate" sold? I still have not seen one for sale, but more than one person mentioned to get that one.
 
lol its alright, UMI is suppose to be great but there bearings go to :):):):) after a year. The sharkfab I picked up the other day has a different kind of bearing but I cant give it a fair comparison till I try it for awhile though its really smooth right now. RRLC looks pretty nice and worked good as well.
 

curt248

01 superjet 94 fx1 97 xp
Location
Chicago IL
Anyone ever try this?

http://www.wavejunkies.com/surf-survival/doctors-corner/61-mod-straight-bars

Written by beachjunkey Tuesday, 04 December 2007 12:32 Purpose: The goal is to move the rider's center of gravity further in to match the center of gravity of the ski. Straight bars (versus "bent" zero-degree bars) also give the feeling of quicker steering. There are also $200 aftermarket solutions that will save you from having to drill and cut if you'd rather save yourself an hour...
Recommended for: highly recommended for all standups, all riding styles

Observations: I feel like I steer more with my arms instead of my shoulders/body with straight bars. They are much easier to pop fast for maximum throw while sustaining a natural equilibrium with your ski. Not only do straight bars sit further away from your gut but they also put your outside grip further forward allowing your body to naturally lean forward into your turns/rolls.
Not to be confused with: Bars that sit further back from the pivot point, such as stock and 0deg bars, will put the inside grip closer into your gut causing your whole body to have to sway out of the way or lean further back. This counter balances your weight in hard turns and is noticeably slower than a quick pop of the bars. These bent UMI-style bars also cause the rider to have to position his body further back.

Supplies: 1/4" drill bit, M8x1.25 tap, oval file and/or die grinder, blue loctite, cutting tools, 7/8" thickazz aluminum tube: mcmaster part# 1658T53
Time: 30-60min
Process: Moved bars 3.5" forward and faster/easier steering response. The picture pretty much speaks for itself. This can also be done on aftermarket umi-style turn plates. The turn plate does not have to be removed from the ski to do this mod.

Last Updated on Monday, 10 December 2007 16:04

It looks pretty sweet for a slight mod to the stock turn plate. It mocked up my bars in that position and it seems like the throttle would hit the pad and not allow the bar to turn to the left.

Has anyone tried this? What has to be modified to allow the bars to turn without hitting the throttle? It looks like he may have turned his throttle around so that it is a thumb throttle. Does this work ok?

Does anyone know what is on the bottom of the plate (I thought he just tapped in the screw holes)? It looks like some sort of rivit assembly. There certainly isn't a lot of room for clearance under the turn plate.
 
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